Q: We have recently discovered that the air ducts in our slab are breaking down; and it was recommended that we consider rerouting the air ducts to the attic. What are the advantages/disadvantages of having air ducts in the floor vs. overhead?

Also we have heard that there are now several companies that can coat the inside of your air ducts in the floor with a paint-like substance that seals off any breaches in the system, therefore leaving the system in the floor vs. rerouting. Have you heard of this procedure, and, if so, is it something you would recommend?

We feel that rerouting the system is very expensive because not only would we have to pay for the new air duct system in the attic, but also we would have to purchase a new heating unit that can be placed horizontally in the attic. The rerouting also would have a "domino" effect in that we would need to consider replacing all of our flooring to cover the old register holes.

Another solution that was mentioned is a split system. What exactly is a split system, and what advantages/disadvantages are there in a split system? --Susan C.

A: You have a couple of different questions here, so I'll try to answer them in order:

1. Warm air rises and cool air falls through a natural convection process. So, ducts that are in the floor tend to be a little more effective in distributing heated air throughout a room. Ducts that are in a ceiling tend to be a little more effective in distributing cooled air throughout a room.

2. If your ductwork is breaking down under the slab, a coating is not going to do you any good. There are companies that can use thermal imaging cameras to pinpoint "hot spots" in the floor where a duct might be broken, allowing you to cut into the slab at that point and make a repair. But if you have more than one bad joint, that's probably not going to be cost effective.

Unfortunately, at this point your best bet is going to be to replace the ducts, and the most cost-effective way to do that is to reroute them overhead.

3. Your heating contractor can advise you on the best way to seal off the old ductwork. As to the holes in the floor, you can simply leave the old registers in place as camouflage until it comes time to replace your flooring.

4. A split system is simply one that has a furnace located somewhere inside the house, and an air conditioning unit located somewhere outside the house. The two share common ductwork, wiring, plumbing and other components, and are controlled by a common thermostat.

Split systems are very common for houses requiring both heat and air conditioning, but they do not offer an alternative to replacing your ductwork.

There are, however, through-the-wall units that combine both heating and air conditioning components and do not require duct work. These are the type of units commonly seen in hotel rooms. They are intended for individual rooms or zones of the house, and while not as convenient as central heating and air conditioning systems, they might offer you an alternative to a new furnace and duct system.

Q: My home, built in 1971, had 6 inches of loose-fill fiberglass insulation installed. This has compressed to about 4 inches. Knowing I needed more insulation in my attic, this past June, I contracted with a local contractor (licensed in Maryland). The workers installed about 1 to 4 inches of loose cellulose in my attic, over the existing fiberglass, totaling 6 inches of insulation, and covered it with a radiant barrier, which they call Attic Mirror. It looks like aluminum foil.

In the section of attic that is a storage area, they also installed this radiant barrier on the ceiling of the attic. They told me I needed a total of 12 inches of insulation for the R-38 factor, but they installed only enough to equate to 6 inches of insulation. They owe me 6 more inches of insulation.

I didn't like what I saw when I returned home, so I hired an inspector who was shocked at what they had done, and suggested that the radiant barrier be removed due to moisture concerns, and to install batts for the additional 6 inches of insulation.

I contacted the contractor, telling the company that the radiant barrier must be removed, and the remaining 6 inches of insulation due me is to be batts. The contractor told me the company does not have batts. I have paid in full for their service, and this problem is still unresolved. Do you have any suggestions as to what I can do here? --Catherine B.

A: First, you need to go back to your original contract with this company. They're a licensed contractor so they had a legal obligation to provide you with a written contract. Within that contract there should have been some specifications about what they were going to do.

1. If the company agreed to provide you with insulation to a specific R-value, and they haven't done that, then they're in default of their contract. I don't like the fact that the contractor blew cellulose over fiberglass. Your fiberglass was already compressed, and the weight of the cellulose is going to compress it even more.

I would have preferred to see the workers simply blow the proper level of fiberglass and be done with it. But either way, they need to complete the work to the specifications of the contract, and document that they have achieved a full R-38. I like the fact that you have an independent person doing the documentation.

2. If the contract specifies blown-in insulation, and that's what you agreed to, then the contractor is really under no obligation to come out and install batts. The company is, however, required to meet "industry standards" for the installation, and if the workers incorrectly installed the material then they have an obligation to remove it and reinstall it correctly. It sounds like that's the case here, which you've documented with the home inspector.

3. I'm not a fan of foil barriers in the attic, and personally I'm not convinced they're effective. Again, incorrectly installed they can become a vapor barrier that can create moisture problems.

4. I'm sure you know this now, and I hate to give you a hard time about it after the fact, but for the future you should never pay for remodeling and repair services until the job is completely done. You can pay a reasonable deposit before the job starts, as well as in-progress payments as warranted, but now that the contractor has all your money, he has no incentive to come back out and complete the job.

All that being said, your first step is always to contact the contractor, which it sounds like you've already done. Since the contractor appears unwilling to make it right, your next step is to file a complaint with the Maryland contractor's board, which has an arbitration service that can step in and work with you and the contractor to help you resolve the matter.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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CORRECTION: The original version of this article contained errors in referring to the thickness of vapor barriers, and the article has been updated. A "mil" is a unit of measurement equivalent to one-thousandth of an inch.

Moisture is something we all need to have in order to survive, and it's surrounding us all the time. Unfortunately, it's also the enemy of a lot of our building materials, and if it gets into the wrong places in our homes and is allowed to remain, it can do a lot of damage.

To keep moisture from getting where it doesn't belong, builders use what are known as vapor barriers. The more you understand about what vapor barriers are and how they work in conjunction with the insulation in your home -- especially when you're doing remodeling and repair work -- the more you can do to help prevent moisture problems, like dry rot and mold, from occurring.

Moisture on the move

First of all, understand that moisture in your home's air is a fact of life. Some of it is there naturally, as a product of the humidity that's in the air, and the more humid the climate you live in, the higher the moisture level that may be inside your home.

Then there's the moisture that you generate yourself: That can come from a wide variety of sources -- anything from showers and cooking to house plants and even breathing.

During the winter months, you keep the air inside your home at a higher temperature than the air outside. Air has a natural tendency to move from a warm area to a cold area, so the heated air in your home is always trying to move toward the ceiling, the floor and the outside walls, carrying moisture vapor with it.

Also, our homes tend to be at a slightly higher air pressure than outside, and that slight overpressure is again pushing the air and moisture toward the ceiling and the exterior walls.

So what is a vapor barrier?

In simple terms, a vapor barrier is a material that won't allow moisture to pass through it, such as plastic sheeting. A very simple experiment to show how a vapor barrier works is to lay a plastic garbage bag down on some damp soil.

Pick the bag up a little while later, and you'll see that the underside of the bag is covered with moisture. The damp soil was trying to give off its moisture to the surrounding air, but the bag -- the vapor barrier -- prevented that from happening.

Once again, remember that the warm air in your home is trying to escape through the exterior walls, carrying moisture vapor with it. If it gets into the exterior walls, some of it will remain in the walls and condense back into a liquid, creating all kinds of problems.

So one of your home's most common vapor barriers -- and one of the most important -- is the one used over the insulation in your exterior walls. It's designed to stop the moisture before it can enter the wall cavities.

There are two basic types of vapor barriers used with exterior wall insulation. The most common is paper-faced insulation. This type of insulation has a Kraft paper face with two flanges. The insulation is installed into the wall cavity with the paper facing into the house. This is very important -- the paper, which is the vapor barrier, always faces the warm side of the house.

That's because that's where the moisture is coming from. After the insulation is pushed into the wall cavities, the paper flanges are unfolded, then they're stapled to the face of the studs. Done correctly, that creates a continuous vapor barrier across the face of the entire wall.

The second method is to fill the cavities with unfaced insulation, then cover the face of the wall with 4-mil clear plastic sheathing. The plastic sheathing is the vapor barrier, and has the advantage of having fewer gaps and openings than the paper-face method, and it's also easier for the drywallers to see the studs during installation.

For the ceiling, if you're using batt insulation it's important that the insulation be installed with the vapor barrier facing down -- again toward the heated space. If you're upgrading old batt insulation by adding a second layer of batts on top of the first, never use faced batts for the second layer. If you do, you run the risk of creating a double vapor barrier; any moisture that passes through the first layer of insulation can get trapped by the vapor barrier on the second layer.

For the most part, attics are insulated with blown-in insulation. So you might be wondering where the vapor barrier is. Actually, there isn't one in that case, other than the drywall and paint on the ceiling. The difference between the attic and the exterior walls is that the attic isn't a closed cavity. It's open to the outside, and has ventilation to allow the moisture to escape. That's why it's critical that attics be properly ventilated, and that exhaust fans not be vented into attic spaces.

The last area to consider is your crawl space, which actually has two vapor barriers to be concerned with. In the typical crawl space with a dirt floor, a 6-mil plastic vapor barrier is used to prevent moisture from the soil from coming up into the crawl space area. That vapor barrier is laid directly on the dirt, and the seams are overlapped at least 12 inches.

The other vapor barrier is created with your floor insulation. One common mistake people make when insulating a floor is to install faced batts between the floor joists with the Kraft paper facing down, so they can staple the paper to the joists to hold the batts in place. Remember, the paper is the vapor barrier, and it has to face the heated part of the house, which means it has to face up. Always install batt insulation between the joists with the paper facing up against the underside of the subfloor, then hold the insulation in place with lath, wire or other means.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Moisture is something we all need to have in order to survive, and it's surrounding us all the time. Unfortunately, it's also the enemy of a lot of our building materials, and if it gets into the wrong places in our homes and is allowed to remain, it can do a lot of damage.

To keep moisture from getting where it doesn't belong, builders use what are known as vapor barriers. The more you understand about what vapor barriers are and how they work in conjunction with the insulation in your home -- especially when you're doing remodeling and repair work -- the more you can do to help prevent moisture problems, like dry rot and mold, from occurring.

Moisture on the move

First of all, understand that moisture in your home's air is a fact of life. Some of it is there naturally, as a product of the humidity that's in the air, and the more humid the climate you live in, the higher the moisture level that may be inside your home.

Then there's the moisture that you generate yourself: That can come from a wide variety of sources -- anything from showers and cooking to house plants and even breathing.

During the winter months, you keep the air inside your home at a higher temperature than the air outside. Air has a natural tendency to move from a warm area to a cold area, so the heated air in your home is always trying to move toward the ceiling, the floor and the outside walls, carrying moisture vapor with it.

Also, our homes tend to be at a slightly higher air pressure than outside, and that slight overpressure is again pushing the air and moisture toward the ceiling and the exterior walls.

So what is a vapor barrier?

In simple terms, a vapor barrier is a material that won't allow moisture to pass through it, such as plastic sheeting. A very simple experiment to show how a vapor barrier works is to lay a plastic garbage bag down on some damp soil.

Pick the bag up a little while later, and you'll see that the underside of the bag is covered with moisture. The damp soil was trying to give off its moisture to the surrounding air, but the bag -- the vapor barrier -- prevented that from happening.

Once again, remember that the warm air in your home is trying to escape through the exterior walls, carrying moisture vapor with it. If it gets into the exterior walls, some of it will remain in the walls and condense back into a liquid, creating all kinds of problems.

So one of your home's most common vapor barriers -- and one of the most important -- is the one used over the insulation in your exterior walls. It's designed to stop the moisture before it can enter the wall cavities.

There are two basic types of vapor barriers used with exterior wall insulation. The most common is paper-faced insulation. This type of insulation has a Kraft paper face with two flanges. The insulation is installed into the wall cavity with the paper facing into the house. This is very important -- the paper, which is the vapor barrier, always faces the warm side of the house.

That's because that's where the moisture is coming from. After the insulation is pushed into the wall cavities, the paper flanges are unfolded, then they're stapled to the face of the studs. Done correctly, that creates a continuous vapor barrier across the face of the entire wall.

The second method is to fill the cavities with unfaced insulation, then cover the face of the wall with 4-millimeter clear plastic sheathing. The plastic sheathing is the vapor barrier, and has the advantage of having fewer gaps and openings than the paper-face method, and it's also easier for the drywallers to see the studs during installation.

For the ceiling, if you're using batt insulation it's important that the insulation be installed with the vapor barrier facing down -- again toward the heated space. If you're upgrading old batt insulation by adding a second layer of batts on top of the first, never use faced batts for the second layer. If you do, you run the risk of creating a double vapor barrier; any moisture that passes through the first layer of insulation can get trapped by the vapor barrier on the second layer.

For the most part, attics are insulated with blown-in insulation. So you might be wondering where the vapor barrier is. Actually, there isn't one in that case, other than the drywall and paint on the ceiling. The difference between the attic and the exterior walls is that the attic isn't a closed cavity. It's open to the outside, and has ventilation to allow the moisture to escape. That's why it's critical that attics be properly ventilated, and that exhaust fans not be vented into attic spaces.

The last area to consider is your crawl space, which actually has two vapor barriers to be concerned with. In the typical crawl space with a dirt floor, a 6-millimeter plastic vapor barrier is used to prevent moisture from the soil from coming up into the crawl space area. That vapor barrier is laid directly on the dirt, and the seams are overlapped at least 12 inches.

The other vapor barrier is created with your floor insulation. One common mistake people make when insulating a floor is to install faced batts between the floor joists with the Kraft paper facing down, so they can staple the paper to the joists to hold the batts in place. Remember, the paper is the vapor barrier, and it has to face the heated part of the house, which means it has to face up. Always install batt insulation between the joists with the paper facing up against the underside of the subfloor, then hold the insulation in place with lath, wire or other means.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: My son is planning to add a deck to his 1928 row home soon. He will be doing most of the work along with my other son, who built his own deck a few years ago. The question is how to attach the ledger board to the vintage double-brick construction.

A contractor friend told him to use "blue" screws to attach the board to the building and then drill all the way through into the basement and use lag bolts to attach. Is there a better way or does this sound like the best method? --Linda Q.

A: In my experience, I've seen only two effective methods used for attaching a ledger in this type of construction, and both were designed by structural engineers.

The first was done by drilling holes all the way through the bricks. Large-diameter bolts were passed through wide washers, called bridge washers, then through the ledger and through the bricks, into the inside of the building (in that case it was into a basement).

Steel plates were placed over the bolts on the inside of the building, to distribute the load over a larger area of the brick, then the bolts and the ledger were secured with lock nuts.

The second method was done where through-drilling wasn't possible. In that case, larger holes were core-drilled into the first layer of brick. The holes were filled with an epoxy mixture, and anchor bolts were embedded in the epoxy. The ledger was then attached to the anchor bolts with washers and lock nuts.

Attaching structural framing to solid brick construction, especially with bricks that are as old as the ones in your son's home, can be very tricky, and even dangerous if not done correctly. Lag bolting is typically not an approved connection method.

As I mentioned, the two examples I gave were designed by a structural engineer, and were designed for the specific size of the deck, the construction methods being used, the condition of the bricks, and the amount of load being imposed on the structure.

Because your son will have to get a building permit for the deck, the building department should also be able to help him with some of the attachment details, or can recommend a qualified engineer to assist with the design.

An incorrectly designed and constructed deck is an accident waiting to happen, so please don't take any chances!

Q: My 1975 split-level home is brick-faced with aluminum siding all around. I wish to place exterior insulation, hard-panel type on the exterior foundation wall (of the basement). The exterior foundation was backfilled in after the house was built. The interior walls of the basement have not yet been insulated, but I will do that in the future.

Questions:

1. I will dig around the foundation wall to place the insulation at 3 feet below the frost line; that would make the panel length required about 7 feet, with 4 feet being visible. What kind of insulation is best for this location?

2. I would paint the insulation panels to match the concrete, using exterior latex. Is latex the best paint system to use?

3. Do you think this would reduce the heat loss from the basement walls to the exterior, and is it cost-effective?

4. Do you have any articles regarding the insulation of the exterior walls? --John P.

A: You might want to consider just placing the insulation on the interior walls. As long as your basement is dry, this would save you some expense, as well as a lot of additional work. It also reduces the risk of termites, which can become a problem in some areas where foam board is used below grade.

To answer your specific questions:

1. For below-grade applications, you should use an extruded polystyrene insulation that's specifically rated for this use. Extruded polystyrene resists degrading from soil and moisture contact, has good compressive strength (the soil won't crush it), and retains its R-value even when damp. It can be applied directly to concrete basement walls, or over damp-proofing. Installation is usually done with an approved adhesive.

2. Extruded polystyrene (and all foam boards) that are exposed above grade need to be physically protected against damage, as well as covered with a thermal barrier. Simply painting it is not adequate. For your particular application, your best bet is to cover it with a sheet metal cover with a sloped top, to allow rainwater runoff.

3. Yes, it will prevent heat loss. As far as being cost effective, that depends on how much expense you need to put into the excavation work. Again, you might want to consider applying it to the interior instead.

4. I would visit www.energysavers.gov, which is part of the U.S. Department of Energy. Do a search for foam board or basement insulation, and you'll get a wealth of information about everything from types of products to installation techniques.

Q: I am demolishing rooms that have existing plaster and drywall finishes. The drywall replacement is approximately 1/3 of total wall coverage. Should I use Sheetrock or plaster? --Jade R.

A: Even though there is less drywall than there is plaster, you'll find that drywall is the more economical replacement material. It's also a much easier material to work with for a do-it-yourselfer. The exception would be if you're restoring a historically accurate home, where it's important to maintain the original interior plaster finishes.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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It's winter, and the temperatures are dropping outside. One day you're warming up your home and suddenly you notice something that you hadn't seen during the summer. That perfectly clear window in the living room or the kitchen or somewhere else in the house suddenly looks foggy. You wipe it down from the inside -- and from the outside -- but the fog won't go away. The next day, it warms up again outside, and to your surprise, the fog disappears again. So what's going on?

That intermittent fogging during cold temperatures is an indication that you have what's known as a "blown seal" in your insulated glass window. Here's what happens:

Insulated glass windows, also known as double-pane windows, have two panes of glass that are held apart by a metal strip. The strip, usually somewhere between 1/4 and 3/4 of an inch wide, is adhered to the two glass panes with a flexible sealant material.

During the manufacturing process, moisture is evacuated from between the glass panes as they're sealed together, forming a dead air space. It's the combination of the two glass panes and the dead air that gives the window panes their additional insulating value, and helps keep the window warmer than one with a single pane of glass.

Depending on the type and design of the window, sometimes inert argon gas is used between the panes to increase the insulating value even further. Some windows also have decorative grids trapped between the panes as a design feature. The sealed, insulated glass units are then placed into the frame and held in place with molding strips, making up a complete window unit.

What happens when damage occurs

The sealed, insulated glass unit is designed to have quite a long life span; in theory, it should last as long as the window unit itself. However, sometimes there are flaws in the manufacturing process or, more likely, some type of impact damage occurs to the window. That can cause a small opening to appear in the seal between the glass and the spacer bar. It's something you won't see, but it's enough to allow air to enter the space between the panes of glass.

You might be thinking that that's no big deal, since that's just an air space anyway, right? But the difference is that it's designed to be a dead, dry air space. Now, with the broken seal, air that has moisture in it has been introduced.

During the summer, when the air temperatures outside are warm and the glass is also warm, that's OK. But now, with the colder temperatures of winter, the outer pane of glass gets cold. The warm air inside your house is trying harder than ever to escape, and it carries moist air into the window cavity, where it hits that cold glass and condenses back into a liquid. The result is that fogging you see. And because it's inside the window, you can't do anything to get rid of it.

Replacement is the only option

Once you discover a window with a blown seal, your only option is to replace the insulated glass unit. You need to do that as soon as you discover the problem, as the window has lost its insulating value, and the trapped moisture can potentially lead to other problems. Not to mention the fact that you can't see through the window!

The good news is that you must replace only the sealed glass unit, not the entire window. This is something that you need to leave to the pros. Contact a glass company in your area and have them make a site visit. They'll examine the window, measure the insulated glass unit, including the size of the air space, and have a new one made up that matches. When the new one is ready, they'll come back out, remove the moldings and the old unit, and install and seal the new unit in place.

If the window is relatively new and the glass unit fails, contact the company or the contractor where you purchased it. Home centers such as Lowe's and Home Depot will typically replace insulated glass units that fail, as will many other retailers.

If you have windows that are damaged in an insurance-related claim, such as a fire, wind storm, or some type of impact such as a tree limb that falls, you may not be aware of the fact that a seal has been damaged until winter comes around and the fogging becomes obvious. For that reason, if you suspect any type of potential window damage, always make your insurance adjuster aware that you'll be holding the claim open for possible future supplemental damage claims.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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If you're thinking of remodeling your bathroom anytime soon, you might not realize just how many bathtub options you have. In addition to an amazing palette of color choices, you also have options in materials, sizes, design, jets, controls and installation methods. Let's take a look at a few of those basic options to get you started on the right path.

Some bubbly with that tub?

A basic choice you'll be making right away is whether you want a jetted or nonjetted tub. Jetted tubs utilize a pump to circulate water though pipes that surround the tub, pushing the water into the tub through adjustable jets. Air is also introduced into the water through various means, creating bubbles.

The combination of the water jets and the air bubbles create a sensation in the water ranging from mildly soothing to invigoratingly therapeutic.

If you're thinking of a jetted tub, be ready for lots of additional options. Depending on the price range, you'll be looking at different types, sizes, and locations of jets, as well as different types and sophistication levels of control panels.

Besides the jets, you'll have options for chromotherapy (different colors and patterns of lights) as well as tub heaters, which keep the tub water heated without continually adding more hot water.

You'll also need to be ready for some additional expense. Jetted tubs cost anywhere from a little to a lot more than their nonjetted cousins. They also require dedicated electrical circuits, as well as a means of accessing the motor for future maintenance.

Installation methods -- choices upon choices

Knowing where the tub is going to be in the room and how it's going to be installed is a crucial first decision, and will dictate a lot of the rest of your design choices. Here are the basic options:

Drop-in: The drop-in tub is perhaps the most popular. Drop-in tubs have a lip around the upper edge, and as the name implies, they're designed to be dropped into an opening in a platform. Since you can make the platform any size and style you like, drop-in tubs also give you a lot of design flexibility, and let your creativity have free reign.

Drop-ins come in a wide variety of sizes and styles, as well as in jetted and nonjetted configurations. With jetted drop-ins, the controls may be in the top lip or the inner sidewall of the tub. If you opt for a jetted tub, remember that the platform design needs to make allowance for a door or other access panel where the motor is located.

Undermount: An undermount tub is similar to an undermount sink. It has no upper lip, and is designed to sit in a platform and have the deck material installed over the top of the tub. Undermount tubs have a very clean look, with a flat, level deck area. They're also available in both jetted and nonjetted versions, and if you opt for a jetted tub, the controls will be mounted in the inside sidewall of the tub so that the deck installation doesn't interfere with them.

Another, more common version of the undermount tub is the traditional three-sided, alcove installation. This type of tub has a finished skirt on one long side, and the other three sides are contained within a three-sided alcove. If the tub is jetted, it's typically designed so that the front skirt is removable to give access to the motor.

Cornermount: Cornermount tubs are more triangular in design, rather than rectangular. They can be drop-in or undermount, and are designed for installation in a corner platform. Corner tubs can be used to free up floor space while still creating a dramatic platform in one corner of the room, and their design is often more conducive to two-person use. Both jetted and nonjetted versions are available.

Freestanding: Another interesting design option is offered by the freestanding bathtub. Tubs of this type are not built into a platform or an alcove, but rather stand alone, resting directly on the floor. The claw-foot tub is probably the most commonly recognized example of a freestanding bathtub, but there are a number of European soaking tub designs that are also freestanding and have a much more contemporary look.

Some of the newer freestanding tubs are now available in jetted models. If you're thinking of one of these, look over the installation specifications well in advance, as they typically have very specific requirements for the location of plumbing, drains, and wiring.

Walk-in: Finally, you have the option of a walk-in tub. Once considered only a tub for someone with disabilities, walk-in tubs are gaining popularity among people who are remodeling their homes with an eye toward "aging in place" and future accessibility.

Walk-in tubs have a door in the side that opens into the tub, allowing easy access without having to step over the tub's side. Once inside, the door seals against the inside of the tub, preventing leakage. Seat heights of 14 inches and an Americans with Disabilities Act-compliant 17 inches are both available. Walk-in tubs are designed to fit into a standard 5-foot tub alcove, and are available in both jetted and nonjetted versions. Look for more styles and options of these tubs in the future as their popularity increases.

Sizes and materials

Once you have a better idea of where your new bathtub will be located, you can narrow down the choices of sizes and materials. Steel and cast-iron bathtubs are still available, but most of today's tubs are made from durable, lightweight acrylics.

The standard size is still the 5-foot-long tub, but 6-foot tubs are certainly popular, as they give a lot more soaking room -- especially if you're tall. If you have the room, consider a 6-foot tub, as the cost difference usually isn't too great, and you'll gain a lot in comfort, appearance and resale value.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: My 36-year-old home has a gas furnace and floor vents. Unfortunately, several of these vents are rusting underground. My furnace guy tells me that here in Oklahoma floor vents are no longer allowed in new homes; they all use ceiling vents. He suggests that instead of repairing the current vents, when I replace the furnace I should have ceiling vents put in. (The furnace is about 19 years old.) He also says that if I were to sell my home I would need to put in ceiling vents or repair the floor vents.

Ceiling vents seem counterintuitive. Why would I want the heat to come in overhead when heat rises? What do you recommend? --Pat H.

A: I'm assuming by the fact that you say that your existing ducts are rusting that you must have a concrete slab floor, and the ducts are in the slab.

I agree with you that it's counterintuitive to have heating vents in the ceiling, and it's not my favorite place to put them. But it's prohibitively expensive to rip up the slab and install new ducting, so it sounds like you don't really have an alternative. Just be sure that both the ductwork and the ceiling are very well insulated to minimize heat loss.

You might also want to consider some paddle fans or other circulating fans on the ceiling to push the heat back down into the rooms. The higher the ceilings in your home, the more important these types of fans become.

Q: My son recently purchased a condo. Left behind was a complete shower-door assembly, which looks brand-new. Upon inspection in an attempt to install it, it appears that the wall jambs and bottom and top tracks are too short. I assume someone may have cut them to the wrong size and gave up on the assembly.

Can these parts be purchased and if so where? Does it pay to get them or just dump the whole thing? Are there any markings that would show the manufacturer? I couldn't locate any on my inspection of the doors and parts. --Tom M.

A: Shower-door assemblies range from very inexpensive to quite costly. Assuming you and your son like the look of the door, before you give up on the project I think it would be worth a little more detective work.

One option is to try a Web search. Simply enter "shower door parts" and you'll find a number of companies that sell replacement channels and tracks. As long as you can match the color and size, you should be able to order what you need.

The other option is to pack the whole thing up and take it to a local glass shop that sells shower doors. They can inspect it and see about ordering the necessary parts for you.

With the second option, you have the added hassle of hauling the door to a shop, but you have the assurance of an expert doing the ordering, for both size and color. Either way, you'll come out money ahead when compared to a complete new shower door.

Q: I read your advice on venting and insulation to prevent ice dams. But we have a cathedral ceiling (no attic space) and our roof pitch is fairly steep, but then levels out onto a porch roof with considerably less pitch. We get ice dams in an area where these roofs meet. I am wondering if there may be a problem with ventilation where the two roof pitches meet. It is a continuous roof (standing seam metal) that goes from one pitch to another. Do you think this could be the problem? If so, what is the solution?

We have considered using a heated cable that they sell at the hardware store, but it says it is not to be used on a metal roof. Is there another solution to beat these dams? --Cindy L.

A: From what you describe, you have one of the worst scenarios for ice damming. You have a low-slope roof meeting a high-slope roof, which allows snow to accumulate in that area. Then you combine that with the vaulted ceiling, which means not only limited ventilation, but most likely very limited insulation in the area where the two roofs meet.

There's no easy fix. In my experience, I've seen only a couple of things done. You can remove the metal roofing in the problem area, and then install a continuous membrane roofing over the joint where the roofs meet, then reinstall the metal. The other possibility is to reframe that portion of the roof to get more slope, and at the same time add a layer of rigid insulation under the roofing to help minimize heat loss.

Your best bet at this point is to talk with a roofer who specializes in metal roofing. After he sees it in person, he may have some additional flashing suggestions for that joint, or a way of diverting and breaking up the snow so it doesn't settle there.

Q: I recently had a dog-eared cedar fence installed, with treated 4-inch-by-4-inch posts and 2-inch-by-4-inch treated rails. I know cedar is known for its durability, but do the cedar pickets need to be treated with a wood preservative? If so, do you have a favorite? --Tom L.

The cedar is fine the way it is, unless you want to preserve its natural yellowish color. If you do, you can apply an oil-based, UV-resistant fence and deck stain that will help keep the cedar from fading and changing color. If you choose to do that, you'll have to do it every couple of years to keep the color looking fresh.

Without any kind of stain or sealer on it, the cedar will slowly fade to a grayish color. This is normal, and won't affect the cedar's durability.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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When you hear the word "audit," you probably immediately go into panic mode. But not every audit has to conjure up scary images of boxes full of paperwork and scowling accountants. When it comes to a warmer house and saving money on your utility bill, an energy audit can be one of the best things you've ever done for yourself.

Simply put, an energy audit is an in-depth inspection and analysis of your home's structural envelope to determine where you might be wasting energy, and then to provide solutions both large and small.

The auditor will take a number of measurements along the way, and perform a variety of different heat-loss and heat-gain calculations. All of this information is then used to determine how much heat your home is losing -- or, in warmer climates, how much it's gaining -- and then offer solutions about how to reduce that loss or gain in order to make the home more comfortable and also reduce energy costs.

There's no single set procedure for how an energy audit is performed, and they can vary in scope and complexity. Typically, however, all audits address several common factors, including insulation, windows, air infiltration, heating and cooling equipment, and ventilation.

Evaluating insulation levels

One of the first and most important aspects of the energy audit is to inspect the levels of insulation that are present in all areas of the home. Auditors typically start with the attic, as that's one of the most important heat-loss areas in the home, as well as one of the easiest areas to improve.

They'll measure the average levels of insulation, as well as the type and condition. Also in the attic area, the auditor will note the insulation levels on knee walls and skylight shafts.

They'll also note the amount and distribution of attic ventilation, since that plays a key role in removing moisture from the attic and also preventing ice damming. For the same reasons, auditors also pay close attention to the condition of ventilation fans, chimneys, and other sources of moisture.

After the attic, the crawlspace and basement will be checked, with the auditor looking for the same basic factors: insulation levels, proper amount of ventilation, and good moisture control. Finally, they'll use probes to check the levels of insulation in the walls wherever possible. Some auditors also use thermal imaging cameras to look for heat loss through walls and other areas of the home.

Inspecting for air infiltration

Air infiltration is the leakage of cold outside air into the house, and heated inside air to the outside. In other words, it's a fancy term for drafts, and it can be a significant factor in both comfort and wasted money. In fact, depending on the age and style of the home, the U.S. Department of Energy estimates that reducing air leaks can account for energy savings of 5 percent to 30 percent per year.

The auditors will look at some of the obvious areas of concern, such as window and door weatherstripping. They'll inspect caulking around windows, doors and other penetrations through the exterior walls. They'll often inspect flashings, intersections, vent dampers, crawlspace doors, the areas where siding overlaps the foundation, and any other areas where air can leak into or out of the house.

In more complex energy audits, a blower door test may be performed. For this test, the auditor removes the building's front door, and replaces it with a specially sealed panel that has a blower motor in it. All of the other doors, windows, fans, and other penetrations in the home are sealed off and the blower is activated, pulling air out of the house.

This lowers the air pressure inside the house, which results in outside air being pulled in through any available gaps or cracks. The auditor then uses a smoke stick to locate those otherwise hidden air leaks.

Windows and doors are another key factor in the audit. Imagine that you have a wall insulated to R-19. The average double-pane window is less than R-2, so that's a pretty big energy loser in the middle of the wall -- even worse if it's single-pane. As such, the auditors will pay a lot of attention to the home's windows.

They'll measure the size of each one, and note its frame type, glass coating, and even the thickness of the space between the panes. Skylight sizes and types are also noted.

The same is true for all of the exterior doors. Auditors will note the size and material of the doors, and whether there's glass in them.

An inspection of the heating and cooling equipment

Finally, auditors will examine the home's heating and cooling equipment. They'll usually begin with an inspection of the furnace and, if there is one, any central air conditioning equipment. They'll look at the size, general condition, types of filters being used, and location of cold-air returns. They'll also make note of the type of thermostat being used, and what settings are available for the homeowner to make use of.

A lot of attention will be paid to the duct system, because that can be a real energy loser in a lot of homes. The auditor will inspect the type of ductwork being used, the way it's installed, the condition of the joints, and the level of insulation. Ductwork in the attic, crawlspace and basement will all be inspected.

Tying it all together

All of this crawling and measuring and calculating doesn't mean much until the auditor pulls all the information together into some conclusions that you can understand and implement, and that's a big part of his job.

The auditor will put together a written set of recommendations, covering everything from increasing insulation levels and replacing old single-pane windows, to the little things like caulking air leaks or upgrading your thermostat.

Typically, the more expensive components of the package, such as replacing windows or changing out a heating system, will be accompanied by projected payback periods to help you with the financial decision-making.

To find an energy auditor in your area, start by contacting your local utility company. Some utility companies have auditors on staff, or else they can direct you to reputable local companies who do audits. You can also do an Internet search under "energy audits, (your city)."

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Do you have some avid do-it-yourselfers on your holiday gift list this year? If so, here's my annual roundup of suggestions for some interesting, quality tools worth considering. They're listed in order of the manufacturer's suggested retail price.

Black & Decker All-In-One Laser Level (Model BDL100AV, $29.97): This is a clever and useful little level that really works. It has two parts: a heavy-duty suction cup; and a small level with a bubble, a light and a laser beam.

The two are held together with a powerful magnet. The suction cup holds the unit securely to most surfaces, and a green light tells you when the unit is level (red light when it's not). It projects a bright red laser line for leveling pictures, shelves or whatever. It includes two AA batteries.

Craftsman Folding Clench Wrenches (Model 30879, $29.99): This clever, compact pair of wrenches covers a wide range of bolt sizes and types to tackle just about any type of project. Ratcheting, adjustable and collapsible, for the toolbox, glove compartment, RV, bike -- anywhere. One 6-inch and one 8-inch wrench cover 1/4 to 7/16 inch and 6 millimeters to 11 millimeters.

Milwaukee 6-in-1 Combination Pliers (Model 48-22-3069, $32): A very handy, professional-grade tool for anyone's toolbox. These heavy-duty, needle-nose pliers feature a wire stripper, wire cutter, pliers, loop-maker, screw cutter for the common 6-32 and 8-32 screws, and a head designed for reaming metal pipe from 1/2 inch to 1 inch in diameter. Nonslip, spring-loaded, locking handles and forged alloy steel round out a very well-made tool.

Craftsman NEXTEC G2 Drill/Driver (Model 30565, $79.99): A nice, compact, 12-volt lithium ion drill/driver at an affordable price. It features a two-speed gear box (0-400 and 0-1,300 RPM, trigger-controlled). There's an 18-position clutch for proper torque settings to match the material and fastener. It has a comfortable, soft-grip handle, built-in fuel gauge, keyless chuck, and LED work light. It includes a 12-volt battery, carrying case and quick charger.

Skil Oscillating Multi-Tasker (Model 1400-02, $79.99): Oscillating tools have been on everyone's wish list, and Skil has introduced a great kit for do-it-yourselfers at a very affordable price. Designed for home projects and light remodeling, the Multi-Tasker has a variable speed, 2-amp motor, integrated dust control, a soft-grip handle, and a no-mar head. The kit comes with three blades; sanding pad and paper; case; and an adapter plate to fit other blades.

Home Right Command Max HVLP Sprayer (Model C800766, $89): The Command Max offers the occasional user the opportunity to own a sprayer at a very affordable price. Lightweight and easy to use, the Command Max is perfect for smaller projects such as spraying clear sealers, polyurethane, stain and varnish. Properly thinned, it can also be used to spray paint. It features an adjustable spray nozzle for different patterns, and adjustable material flow volume control.

Skil Combo Router Kit (Model 1830, $109.99): For anyone who needs to add a router to his or her arsenal of tools, Skil's come up with a very attractive combo kit at a great price. With a 2 1/4-horsepower motor and a 1/2-inch collet, this is a definite step up from most entry-level routers.

The motor even has variable speed and soft start, usually only found on more expensive routers. You get a fixed base and a plunge base, both with micro-fine depth adjustments, quick-release clamps and soft-grip handles. You even get a case.

Werner Telescoping MultiLadder (Model MT-13 [13-foot], $119.99): If you have only one ladder around the house, this should be it. The Werner MultiLadder is a single stepladder that adjusts to different heights; is a stair ladder that can be adjusted to unequal lengths for stairs; converts to two stepladders; converts to an extension ladder; and splits into two scaffold bases for use with an optional plank. The operation is smooth and easy, and the ladder feels sturdy underfoot in all the different modes. It features a type 1A duty rating and a 300-pound load rating.

Dremel Saw-Max (Model SM20-02, $129.99): This is an innovative new tool from Dremel with a ton of uses around the house. It's basically a small but powerful worm-drive circular saw with interchangeable, 3-inch cutting wheels. Use it to cut wood, plastic, metal, tile, masonry and more. You can plunge cut, or flush cut for tasks like fitting flooring under door jambs. It's light and easy to handle, and cuts to 3/4 inch deep. It includes four different cutting wheels, vacuum adapter, and a hard case.

Milwaukee M12 Cordless Ratchet (Model 2457-21, $149): Part of the Milwaukee family of compact 12-volt lithium ion tools, and perfect for anyone who needs the convenience of a powered 3/8-inch ratchet. It's powerful, with 250 RPM and 35 foot-pounds of torque. There's a compact head design for tight spaces, on-board LED light and battery power levels, variable speed metal trigger and reinforced steel housing for durability. It includes a case, battery and 30-minute charger.

Ridgid TwinBlade Saw (Model R3250, $149.95): This heavy-duty little brute from Ridgid uses twin 5-inch blades spinning in opposite directions, coupled to a powerful 10-amp motor. It'll cut through just about anything, including stainless steel, galvanized iron, wood, copper, steel, aluminum, rebar and more -- both forward and backward.

It has a compact design and comfortable grips for use even in confined areas, and has a wax port for use with wax sticks. It includes blades and a case.

Ridgid 18-Volt Compact Drill/Driver (Model R86008K, $179): Pro-grade cordless drill/drivers are always a great gift for the do-it-yourselfer, and Ridgid has a great one here. Featuring a compact size with a slide-in, flat-bottom 18-volt 1.5 Ah lithium ion battery with fuel gauge, it's got 455 inch-pounds of torque and two speed ranges (0-450 and 0-1,650 RPM).

It has a textured, nonslip grip, 24-position clutch, 1/2-inch keyless chuck, and an LED light that can be triggered independently. It includes a belt hook and very handy auxiliary handle. Complete kit with fast charger, two batteries, and soft case.

Dewalt 20-Volt MAX Compact Drill/Driver (Model DCD780C2, $219): Looking for more power in a compact package? Dewalt delivers with its new pro-grade 20-volt MAX lithium ion drill/driver. It's loaded with features, including two speed ranges (0-600 and 0-2,000 RPM); 1/2-inch keyless chuck; 16-position clutch; LED light; 1.5 Ah flat-bottom, slide-on battery; and a soft, contoured grip.

It's all packed into a compact body that weighs only 3.4 pounds and is just 7 1/2 inches long for easy access in tight spaces. It includes a complete kit with two batteries, fast charger, belt hook and hard case.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Cold weather's upon us again, and you may be looking at changing or upgrading your old heating system to better deal with winter's chill. But what type of furnace should you get? There's actually quite a bit that will go into making that all important decision, and here are some things worth considering.

Understanding paybacks

Throughout the process of selecting a new heating system, and even when considering energy upgrades as discussed below, you'll be faced with the concept of "paybacks." It's an important thing to understand, especially if you're feeling pressured by a salesperson to choose a particular product.

Let's say you currently pay an average of $200 a month to heat your home for an average of seven months of the year, or $1,400 per year. Now let's say that a new, high-efficiency furnace, along with some upgraded insulation, will heat your home for $90 a month, or $630 a year.

That's a savings of $770 annually. If the new furnace and insulation cost $5,000, it would take you about 6 1/2 years for the savings to pay back the investment.

Paybacks aren't difficult to understand, as long as you're able to get the necessary numbers. This is something that your heating contractor and utility company should be able to help you with.

Deal with your home's energy efficiency first

How efficient any heating system is going to be at keeping your home warm is dictated by how energy efficient the home is in the first place. You can have a small home, but if it's drafty and poorly insulated, you'll need a much larger furnace than might otherwise be required in order to keep it heated. That means more upfront cost and higher operating costs.

So before you consider your new heating system, if possible you should complete any required energy upgrades your home needs. Your best bet is to have an energy audit done. The auditor will make a thorough inspection of the house, and will make specific recommendations for upgrades to insulation, windows, weatherstripping, and other components that will make it more energy efficient. Your utility company or heating contractor can often arrange for or recommend energy auditors in your area.

Fuel considerations

Next, you'll want to consider what type of fuel to use for the new heating system. Common choices include electricity, natural gas, propane and heating oil. Quite often, you'll opt for what the house currently has, but that's not always the best choice.

For example, you may currently have an electric furnace, but if natural gas is available in your area, you may find that to be more efficient. However, in your payback calculations you'll need to take into consideration the cost of having the gas line brought to your house, which may or may not be covered by the gas company.

Or you may be considering replacing an oil-burning furnace with propane, but in your payback calculations remember to weigh in the costs of having the oil tank removed and the new propane tank installed. With buried propane tanks, you also have the costs of excavating to consider.

Rating furnace fuel efficiencies

All electric furnaces work on electric resistance, so 100 percent of the energy they consume goes towards heating the house; the inefficiencies with electricity would occur in the power generation process itself, and in losses that occur as the power moves through the transmission lines.

The efficiency of oil furnaces has improved quite a bit in recent years. Changes in burner designs have resulted in efficiencies going from around 60 percent to something more like 80 percent today. However, these higher efficiencies often require upgrades to the chimney if you're planning to reuse the old one, so that's something that needs to be taken into consideration as well.

Most of today's natural gas and propane furnaces achieve efficiency ratings of 85 percent to 95 percent or more. So little heat is wasted with these units that they can actually be vented with plastic vent pipes. As you'd expect, with each step up in efficiency you also step up in initial cost, so that's something to take into consideration with your payback calculations.

Heat pumps and air conditioning

To add to the mix, you'll want to consider whether you want air conditioning. If so, be sure that the contractors are aware of that when they put their estimates together. Even if you don't want to add it now, if you're considering it in the future, you need to make sure the new heating system is compatible with it.

Another option worth considering is a heat pump. Heat pumps work like a refrigerator in reverse, drawing heat from the outside air and transferring it to your home. A reversing valve allows the process to work in the opposite direction as well, drawing heat from the house and exhausting it to the outside, so a heat pump gives you both heat and air conditioning.

Heat pumps generally work best in relatively moderate climates and can be very energy efficient to operate in those conditions. However, when the outside air temperatures drop too low, there's not a lot of ambient heat to draw from, and their efficiency drops quite a bit. Heat pumps can have a significantly higher initial cost, so you need to compare paybacks carefully.

Pulling it all together

For a project this complex and potentially costly, I'd strongly recommend getting at least two estimates. Ideally, the contractors should be bidding equipment from two different, recognized manufacturers, which will give you an additional opportunity to compare costs, efficiencies and paybacks.

Be sure you verify that all licenses, bonds, insurance, and other requirements are in place and in compliance with whatever your state requires. Finally, a good heating contractor should be able to offer energy advice for your home, and should be able to give you specific payback information for the cost of any system they're bidding.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: I've had loose-fill fiberglass (insulation) in my attic since 1975. I have some new insulation with brown paper covering on one side so I need to know if that is called batts? If it is called insulation batts, then can I put them on top of loose-fill fiberglass? Which side would I put the batts: at bottom or at top?

In your article you wrote about "using unfaced batts only so that you don't create a double vapor barrier and trap moisture between the layers of batts." What does that mean? I want to understand about it clearly before I put them in the attic. --Becky F.

A: The type of insulation you describe, with the paper facing over the insulation, is indeed what is known as batts. The paper facing is the vapor barrier.

Here's a quick explanation of how it all works: Inside the house, you create moisture from cooking, bathing, etc. That moisture vapor in the air wants to move from a warm area to a cold area, so it's naturally always moving toward the ceiling and exterior walls of the house.

Vapor barriers are used to prevent that moisture from getting into enclosed areas where you don't want it, because once it gets in there, if it can't escape it can do a lot of damage.

For that reason, batt insulation often comes with a vapor barrier on one side. The vapor barrier is always installed facing the heated side of the wall or ceiling, because that's where the moisture is coming from.

Now let's look at your situation, which is a little different. You have loose-fill insulation in the attic, which doesn't have a vapor barrier. The theory is that part of the moisture vapor in the house is actually blocked by the drywall and paint on the ceiling.

Any moisture that does enter the attic will pass through the loose-fill insulation and exit the attic through the roof vents, so it won't cause any damage.

It's fine for you to install your batt insulation over the existing loose fill. However, you want to remove the paper vapor barrier first -- simply peel it off and discard it -- then lay the batts on top of the loose fill as gently as possible, so that you don't compress the old insulation.

If you don't remove the vapor barrier, you run the risk of trapping moisture vapor that passes through the loose fill against the vapor barrier, where it can't escape from the attic.

Q: We have the "new insulated window," and after 10 years we have had major condensation problems. Any thoughts? --Wilson R.

A: If the condensation is appearing between the panes of glass, then you have a broken seal in the insulated glass unit. Insulated glass works by trapping a layer of dead air between two panes of glass. If the seal is broken, moisture can get between the panes and condense, and it's very difficult to get rid of.

The only solution is to replace the insulated glass unit. You need to call a local glass company, and the company can make a site visit and measure your window. They'll order a new sealed glass unit -- just the glass, not the entire window -- that will be made to fit your particular window. Once the new glass unit arrives, on-site installation is fairly simple for most types of windows.

Q: Are brick-construction homes colder than a wooden home in the New England winter? --Glenn D.

A: If you're talking about a true brick construction, as opposed to a brick veneer over a standard insulated, wood-framed wall, then the answer is yes. You have several problems with full-brick construction when it comes to keeping them warm:

1. Brick has an R-value of approximately 0.2 per inch (which would equal 0.8 for a standard 4-inch brick). So if you have a typical double-brick wall that's 8 inches thick, you have an R-value that's less than R-2. On the other hand, a 6-inch wood-frame wall has an R-value that's more than 10 times that much.

2. Brick homes tend to have more air infiltration problems, due to the number of joints between the bricks. Even tiny gaps can add up to a lot of infiltration heat loss when multiplied over the size of the entire home.

3. Conventional brick homes don't have wall cavities, so there's no place to add insulation. The only way to improve the thermal performance is to add a layer of rigid foam to the face of the walls.

4. Brick has a lot of thermal mass, so it takes time for heat to penetrate it and warm it up. Therefore, it takes more time for a brick house to respond to temperature changes. When you get home from work and turn on the heat, it's going to take a lot longer for a brick house to "feel" warm than for a conventional wood house.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Caulking seems like a pretty easy thing to do, and all in all it is. But there are some tricks of the trade that can make a big difference between a smooth, hassle-free caulking job and one that's frustrating and perhaps a little sloppier than you'd like. So before your next caulking project, here are a few things to keep in mind.

Gather up a few simple tools

For any caulking job, you need only a handful of basic items, all of which are available at any home center, hardware store or paint store.

First of all, you'll need a good-quality caulking gun. Skip the 99-cent bin and those low-end guns that utilize a ratcheting plunger, easily recognized by the series of notches cut into the plunger's shaft. Ratcheting guns don't operate smoothly, so it's hard to apply a clean, uniform bead.

Instead, for around $10 you can buy a pro-grade gun, which has a couple of moveable plates that grip a smooth plunger rod. The action is much smoother, and it's also easier to release, so you have less wasted caulk dripping out of the tube. Ideally, the gun you select should also have a rotating barrel, a rod for puncturing the caulking tubes, and hook on the end for hanging the gun (more on that in a moment).

In addition to the caulking gun, you'll need a 5-gallon bucket, several rags, a utility knife, and some disposable gloves. If you have large gaps to fill, you'll also need some foam backer rod, as described below.

Prepare the joints

First of all, you need to prepare the areas that you're going to be caulking. Like anything else, if the area is dirty, dusty, wet or filled with debris, you won't get the results you want. Use a brush, putty knife, compressed air, or other appropriate tools and techniques to clean out the cracks you want to caulk. If you're repainting, be sure that any old paint is cleared out. On new wood, be sure the wood is dry and free of sawdust, and has shrunk as much as possible.

The manufacturer's directions on the caulking product you're using will specify how large of a gap that particular caulk will fill without sagging -- typically 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch in width. If you try to fill anything wider that what the caulking is rated for, it will simply sag into the gap or the caulk film will split; either way, it means an unsightly caulking job that's not weathertight.

The solution is to use what's known as a backer rod. This is simply a round foam rod, which is sold by the roll in different diameters. Use a rod that's slightly larger in diameter than the gap, so that it compresses into the opening. Cut the rod to the desired length, then press it into the gap so that it's slightly below the surrounding surfaces. You can then caulk the gap on top of the backer rod, without worrying about the caulk sagging into the gap.

A few simple techniques

One of the easiest ways to ensure that the caulking bead isn't too large and sloppy is to start with a small bead in the first place. To do that, use your utility knife to cut the end of the caulking tube to create an opening that's no larger than the bead you would like to produce. Also, cut the tube at an angle, rather than straight across. A small, angled opening in the tube will produce the cleanest, easiest-to-control caulking bead.

Another simple trick is to keep the end of your caulking tube clean and free of dried caulking. To do that, fill your 5-gallon bucket with enough clean water so that you can hang the caulking gun from the edge of the bucket by its hook and have the end of the tube suspended in the water. That way you can easily transport and store the gun and tube while you're working, without the tip ever drying out.

To apply the caulk, start at one end of the gap you're trying to caulk, then pull the gun toward you as you gently squeeze the trigger. Getting a clean bead is a matter of the right combination of trigger pressure and gun speed, but it doesn't take much to master the technique.

As you start to approach the end of the bead, let up on the trigger pressure, and as you come to the end, press the release button to relieve the pressure on the tube and stop the caulking flow. There's often still going to be a slight flow of caulk out of the end of the tube even when you release the pressure, so have a piece of scrap cardboard available to set the gun on, or hang it back in the bucket and allow the excess to drip back in there.

There are different tools available for smoothing the fresh bead if necessary, but to be honest, most everyone, including the pros, still use their finger. You'll probably want to be wearing gloves to avoid a lot of washing up afterward. Also, when running your finger along those joints, be really careful about picking up a splinter, or cutting yourself on nails or even the sharp edge of old paint.

Keep a damp rag with you at all times. It's the only way to keep your hands, your equipment, and any adjacent surfaces clean. Rinse the rag often, because it will quickly begin to stiffen up as it gets caulking on it. You'll also find that after a short time, rinsing won't do much good any more, and that's when it's time to change both the rag and the water in your bucket. If you remember to do both, you'll find that your entire caulking project runs a lot smoother, and everything stays a whole lot cleaner.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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No one likes wasting money, especially in these tough economic times. So it certainly makes sense -- dollars and cents -- to make a small investment of time and supplies to close up those heat-wasting air leaks around your home. It'll pay back big dividends in reduced energy bills and a warmer, more comfortable house this winter. So let's look at some of the areas where those drafts may be lurking, and see how to take care of them.

1. Doors and windows: This should be an obvious one. If you can see gaps between your siding and your windows or exterior doors, close them up with a bead of clear or paintable acrylic latex caulk. Larger gaps can be filled with foam backer rod before applying the caulking.

2. Exterior penetrations: Some of these areas are going to be obvious, while some may take a little bit of searching. Some examples of exterior penetrations where air can leak into the house include exterior faucets, dryer vents, exterior electrical outlets, exterior light fixtures, holes that have been drilled for phone and TV cables, conduit penetrations, exit points for plumbing drains, and penetrations for air conditioning lines. Closing these penetrations may require a variety of different techniques, including caulk, expanding spray foam, or, in the case of electrical boxes and fixtures, specific gaskets that are designed to fit the boxes.

3. Exhaust-vent covers: Dryer vents, range hood vents, bath fan vents, and other interior ventilation equipment typically terminate outside the house in a plastic or metal cover that has one or more louvers on it. The louvers are designed to be in the closed position whenever the fan is not in use, so that outside air doesn't leak in. Check all of these louvers to be sure they're closing completely, with no air leaks. If they aren't, you can adjust the spring tension to hold them closed more tightly; add foam weatherstripping tape for a more air-tight seal; or replace the entire vent cap with a new one.

4. Gaps around interior vents and recessed lights: Inside your home, heated air can be leaking out around that same ventilation equipment, where vent pipes pass through the walls or ceiling, or where vent covers meet wall and ceiling surfaces. Recessed light fixtures can also be real air-leakers. Around the vent pipes and recessed light cans, seal any gaps with caulking. For the vent covers and recessed light covers, remove the covers, then adjust the springs and/or add foam weatherstripping tape to create a tight seal between the cover and the ceiling.

5. Heat-duct penetrations: Gaps around heating-duct cans where they pass through the floor or wall allow cold air to enter from the crawl space, while gaps around ceiling-duct cans allow heated air to escape into the attic. To close those drafts, first remove the register, then use a combination of caulking and/or metallic duct sealant tape to close any gaps between the sheet metal cans and the floor, wall or ceiling surface.

6. Fireplaces and woodstoves: Lots of gaps can occur around these appliances. With a conventional fireplace, keep the damper closed except when burning a fire to prevent heated air from escaping up the chimney. Consider investing in a set of air-tight doors, which close off the air leaks and also make your fires more efficient. Look for gaps around woodstove and gas fireplace flue pipes, and air leaks around masonry chimneys. Use a metal collar if necessary around flue pipe penetrations, and seal gaps with heat-resistant sealant specially formulated for this application.

7. Attic and crawl space hatches: These can be real air losers if they're not weatherstripped, so take care of that with some foam tape. Make sure the hatches are insulated as well.

8. Interior doors to unheated spaces: If you have any interior doors that lead to unheated spaces, including basements, garages or attics, be sure the doors are weatherstripped to prevent air leakage. If possible, replace older, hollow-core doors with solid-core or, better yet, insulated metal doors.

9. Sill plates and penetrations: This one's not as easy to deal with, but it's well worth the effort to try to do whatever you can with it. Air can leak both into and out of the house through gaps where the sill plate meets the foundation or the siding, and around plumbing and wiring penetrations drilled through wall plates in various areas. If you have a gap between your siding and the bottom of your exterior wall, especially in older homes where the use of sill sealers was not a common practice, consider closing up this big air gap with a bead of caulking or expanding foam. In the basement, crawl space and attic, if you can access any of the pipes and wires that pass through the wall plates, seal the penetrations with expanding foam.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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When you're thinking about ways to keep the heat inside your house where it belongs, one interesting project that's often overlooked is the vestibule, also sometimes known as an airlock.

In addition to helping you cut winter heating and summer cooling costs, vestibules can offer lots of interesting design and remodeling possibilities. They can add curb appeal, resale value, and some additional, very practical square footage as well.

The vestibule is really a simple concept. It's actually just an entry hall or room with a door at each end. A person entering the house from outside passes though the first door and into the vestibule, then through the second door, which leads into the house itself. This two-door system, often seen in commercial buildings such as retail stores and office buildings, is very effective at trapping heated or cooled air inside the room rather than allowing it to escape outside.

While they're often used at the front of the house, vestibules can actually be added at any exterior door. The more traffic that particular door sees, the more effective the vestibule will be in keeping conditioned air within the home.

Vestibules serve a great second purpose in keeping your house cleaner and more organized. The room traps a lot of dirt and dust before it makes its way into the house, and it's the ideal place to set up benches, closets, hooks, storage bins -- whatever you need to make a comfortable and convenient spot for people to shed dirty boots and winter coats. A less formal vestibule at the back or side of the house can even contain a large sink and counter area, perfect for messy cleanups after gardening or even your latest fishing trip.

Some design considerations

What your vestibule looks like depends on where it's located, and how you want it to blend with your home's existing architecture. You actually have a little more leeway with a vestibule than with other types of additions, allowing for a combination of different building materials, decorating techniques, and even landscaping. Ideally, the design should be spacious enough to feel comfortable and to accommodate whatever furnishings you'd like it to have, but not so large that it dominates that side of the house -- especially if it's in front -- or that it requires heating.

One idea is to simply create a vestibule out of an existing front or back porch. If your porch is already covered, this enclosure process may be no more involved than adding three walls and a door. If there is no porch currently there, you have the freedom to create a small roofed and walled-in area in any style that compliments your home's design.

Here are a few things to consider in your planning:

1. The vestibule's proportions should be in keeping with the general proportions of the house. A tiny vestibule will have an out-of-place, "tacked on" appearance in front of a large house with a wide, tall front facade, while an expansive vestibule can easily dominate the front of a small house.

2. Typically, you'll want to select roofing materials that match the existing home, while siding materials can either match or compliment what's existing. For example, wood siding on the vestibule might be a nice compliment to a brick house, especially if you can't match the style and color of the original brick. Likewise, stone or brick on the vestibule might be a nice compliment to a house with wood siding.

3. Use enough windows and/or skylights to keep the vestibule feeling open and bright, especially if it's small. However, remember that the more glass the room has, the colder it will be in winter, and the hotter it could potentially be in summer. Depending on the room's orientation, you may also want to consider adjustments in the amount of glazing; with a south orientation, more glass will take advantage of passive solar heating during the winter, but a north exposure will remain colder during the winter, so you might want to reduce the glazing. Windows should all be double-pane and low-emissivity (low-e) to keep the space as energy efficient as possible.

4. Remember, this is not a space you're going to heat, so don't run a duct to it. If you do, you're simply adding square footage to your heating bill, and defeating the concept of what the vestibule is there for. However, if you add a sink, be sure that the plumbing is well-insulated, or that a small space heater is provided to protect pipes from freezing during extremely cold weather.

5. Think of the vestibule more as an outside space than an inside one. Consider easy care materials, especially for the floor. Brick, stone or nonslip ceramic tile are all good choices that also look nice. Area rugs should be nonslip and easy to clean. If you're going with the mudroom concept, consider furniture that will be easy to clean and will stand up to water, snow and mud.

6. Ideally, try to offset the exterior door of the vestibule from the interior one. In the event that both doors happened to be open at the same time, this offset design helps prevent cold air and even dirt and debris from blowing directly into the house.

7. Finally, remember that the construction of a vestibule, even if you're just enclosing an existing porch, is still a structural addition, and will require building permits. Check with your local building department before starting any remodeling project of this type.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: We live in a 2-year-old condo with west-facing windows. The afternoon sun is very bright and hot at times. Someone told me that you can have a film professionally applied to the inside of the windows that will still allow all the light to come in, but will cut the ultraviolet rays and it will stay a little cooler in summer and keep it a little warmer in winter, as well as cutting down on sun fade for carpet, etc. Do you know anything about this and if it really helps? What should we look for in a product, and how do we find a reliable installer? --Eleanor S.

A: There is actually a wide range of window films that can be applied to your windows, including ones that will block UV rays and heat from entering, while actually helping to reduce heat loss back through the glass, so you also get some benefit in the winter. Depending on your needs, you can get films that are completely clear or ones that are tinted so that people on the outside can't look in.

To find an installer, check the Yellow Pages under "Windows -- Tinting." As with hiring any person to work on your house, you need to make sure that the company you hire is properly licensed, bonded and insured. Ask that they make a site visit to examine your windows, and that they bring samples of the different films. Also, ask for local references of people they have worked for so that you can see some of these films in an actual house, and also check on how the past client felt about the company. Finally, be sure you get at least two competitive estimates; make sure that you fully understand the price, warranty, and services they're providing; and be sure you get everything in writing.

There are a couple of other things to be aware of. With many types of insulated-glass windows, the application of a tinting film can void the window's warranty. Be sure that you ask the tinting companies about that, and also check with the window manufacturer to verify what you're being told. Also, window films can be something of a gray area with condo associations. Technically, the condo association owns the window, and a window film is usually considered an alteration of the window itself, not just a window covering. So before you install a film, be sure to check with your condo association to avoid any conflicts.

If it turns out that a tinting film is not a viable option for you, you can also install interior or exterior roll-up sun shades that will accomplish the same goals.

Q: I would like to self-install a ceiling fan with lights. I can follow instructions well and if I get into trouble have friends that I can call upon. My question has to do with how to identify what I am starting out with. We have a capped ceiling outlet that is wired to two wall switches. Obviously I have what I need for the fan and a light kit but this isn't the issue. Does this wiring indicate that the "box" in the ceiling is the type for a fan installation? There is much overspray up there and no markings on the box itself. (It is actually round with a plastic or nylon cross bar with a center hole) The box thing looks flimsy to me ... but I do not know how to identify a box for a fan installation as opposed to a box for only a light installation. --Connie D.

A: You have an interesting situation. The typical ceiling fixture box, especially a plastic one, isn't intended to handle the weight of a ceiling fan and light.

However, I'm a little confused by what you describe. You said that the ceiling outlet is capped off, and that it's wired to two switches. That sounds like a situation where the builder had intended the installation to be for a ceiling fan, so it's possible that the proper type of box is already in place.

There are two types of boxes you can use. One looks like an upside-down saddle bag, and is intended to straddle the ceiling joist and be attached directly to the joist. This type of box is easy to identify, since it's not a uniform depth inside -- instead, half of the box protrudes up on either side of the joist. If that's what's there, you're fine.

The other type of box is suspended from a steel rod that's attached between two ceiling joists. The box slides along the rod, and is then secured in place. From below, you can usually identify this type of box by the nut or screws in the top of the box that secure the box to the rod. There's actually a third style as well, which is a shallow metal box that's screwed directly to wood backing, but that doesn't sound like what you're describing.

If you don't have either of these types of boxes, you'll need to install one. If your current box is attached to a joist, and you have some slack in the wiring, then removing the old box and replacing it with the joist-straddling box may be an option. If you have access to the attic, the box with the rod is a good choice, since it's easy to install and has the additional advantage that the box can then be slid along the rod and secured anywhere you want, so you can align it over the old hole.

Both of these boxes will have weight ratings, but they should handle just about any type of fan/light combination. You can get them wherever you bought the fan, and the dealer can help you with selecting the type of box that's best for your application, as well as verifying that it's sufficient for the weight.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: I have a small (12-foot-by-10-foot) wooden deck in my backyard, which was stained in redwood finish about three years ago. Some areas of the deck has weathered and faded. I am planning to restain the deck in the next week or so. Any advice on the preparation and staining techniques? --O.C.

A: If it's been only three years, it sounds like the original material used to stain the deck might not been of the highest quality. I would suggest cleaning and prepping the deck using a product such as Wolman's DeckStrip, which will remove the old stain and prep the wood to receive new material.

It's pretty easy to use, just follow the package directions. Then apply a new, high-quality, UV-resistant stain that's formulated for deck use. Depending on the weather conditions where you are, if you plan on reapplying the stain every two years you shouldn't have any further weathering problems.

Q: I have a poured block foundation under my house that has developed a few thin vertical cracks. I was wondering how to go about fixing them. I had bad gutters and poor grading around the house. Both issues have been fixed and now I need to fix the cracks.

I've heard of a poly-type injection system that a homeowner can use as a do-it-yourself project, which consists of an epoxy paste that's mixed and spread along the crack after adhering approximately eight to 10 ports along the crack. Then you let that dry and inject the poly substance into the ports, thus sealing the crack. I was wondering if that would work in my situation, and, if so, where can I purchase the product? --Deb D.

A: Unfortunately, when it comes to foundation cracks, I always want to err on the side of caution. There certainly are a number of good products for repairing cosmetic cracks, but the cracking can also be an indicator of deeper structural problems. As such, I would advise you to consult with a licensed concrete or masonry contractor or a structural engineer to first be sure that there are no structural or settling issues.

If there aren't, then the contractor or engineer can also advise you on the proper epoxy crack filler for your particular situation.

Q: We have a ranch home with an attic fan on the east side of the house. We have a vent at the peak of roof and a fan approximately 14 to 16 inches in diameter with screening and a louvered cover on the outside.

We noticed that underneath the fan there is a board that appears to be rotted. There is no mold on the outside, but the wood seems porous and we also saw what looked like water streaks on the wood. Our bedroom below this area has a musty smell, and I am wondering if it is coming from the area under the fan.

Who would I contact to come over and determine if there is mold behind it and replace it? Do I have to call a mold specialist or someone like that? How about a home inspector? I am not sure if a regular carpenter would be able or want to deal with this issue. --Barb and Jerry

A: I would suggest a contractor who deals with insurance restoration work. This type of contractor will have moisture detection equipment that can read the extent of moisture and how far it's traveled, which will help you determine how extensive the damage might be and perhaps track down the source. They're typically very well educated in mold issues, and can help you to assess any remediation work that needs to be done, as well as any health issues that might be present.

For a good source of qualified, licensed insurance restoration contractors, I would ask your local homeowners insurance agent for recommendations.

Q: I have an existing deck and had the staircase removed due to a new pool that has been constructed in my backyard. We are to the point where the deck stairs needs to be replaced. Is it possible to construct deck stairs that make a 180-degree turn without right angles? I want a gradually sweeping turn to the ground as opposed to the traditional 90-degree turns from a landing.

My carpenter tells me it's too costly to even consider. Your thoughts? --Bill W.

A: Sounds like your best option is a spiral staircase. A spiral staircase looks awesome, and can be designed and installed to suit a wide variety of heights and spaces.

And while I'd agree with your carpenter that site construction of one is pretty expensive, there are a lot of kits available that might not be cost-prohibitive, especially if you do the installation yourself. I'd start with an Internet search under "exterior spiral staircase kits," and go from there.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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If you're considering remodeling your kitchen, bathroom, laundry room or any other area in your home that needs cabinets, modular cabinets can be a great time and money saver. Installation is well within the range of most moderately experienced do-it-yourselfers, and all the tools you'll need are probably already in your arsenal.

Simple projects such as a bathroom or a laundry area may require only one or two cabinets, while a complete kitchen may need 20 or more cabinets along with a variety of accessories.

Either way, rely on the assistance of a designer at the store where you're purchasing the cabinets to assist you with selecting exactly what you need, as well as completing a scale layout drawing and complete material list.

Prepping for installation

When your cabinets arrive at the job site, begin by sorting them out. Check each one against the layout and the packing list to make sure everything, including all of the accessories -- fillers, toe-kick covers, crown moldings, and any other items you ordered with the package -- have been delivered. Report any damaged or missing items immediately.

Next, gather all your tools and supplies. For a typical installation, you'll need a drill or screwdriver; bits; 2-foot and 6-foot levels; clamps; flat-head wood screws in various lengths; a stud finder; step ladder; shims; framing square; and some standard carpentry tools.

Some installers begin with the lower cabinets, some with the uppers. My preference has always been to start with the uppers, working out from the corner on whatever is the longest wall. Locate all of the cabinets that will go on that wall, then check them again against your plan to verify width, height and door swing.

Unpack each of these cabinets, and remove the doors and shelves and set them carefully aside so they don't get lost or damaged.

Installing the upper cabinets

Using your stud finder, locate and mark the stud centers on the first wall. Measure from the floor to the bottom of where the cabinets will be -- typically 54 inches off the floor, but verify this on your plans -- and mark this location on the wall. Mark a level line at this point with your 6-foot level, then attach a piece of scrap wood to the wall as a temporary support.

Modular cabinets are made in widths starting at 9 inches and going up to 48 inches or more in 3-inch increments -- 9 inches, 12 inches, 15 inches, etc. Odd inches are made up using filler strips of matching material. Let's say your wall is 109 1/2 inches long. Based on 3-inch increments, your cabinets will make up 108 inches of that wall, so you'll need a 1 1/2-inch filler for the rest of it.

For best appearance, the filler should be equal at each end of the run, so rip a 3/4-inch filler for each end. Predrill the filler, then countersink your holes. Clamp the filler to the left side of the first cabinet in the run so that the face of the filler is flush with the face of the cabinet, and screw the filler in place.

With a helper, lift the first cabinet into place, resting it on the temporary support you installed earlier. Measure your stud locations, and drill and countersink the cabinet to receive the installation screws. Most modular cabinets have a wood strip at the inside top of the cabinet that's intended to receive the hanging screws, so drill through that.

Make sure the cabinet is in the correct position, and screw it loosely to the wall. Your installation screws should penetrate at least 1 1/2 inches into the stud. Don't tighten the screws completely at this time, but make sure the cabinet is snug.

Set the second cabinet in place on the wall, slide it against the first cabinet, and use clamps to secure the face frames together. Make sure the cabinets are exactly in line, and the face frames are flush. Once again, measure and drill the installation holes, and screw the cabinet loosely to the wall.

Now, drill through the cabinet stiles where you've clamped the face frames together. Be sure you drill pilot holes and then countersink your holes. Use flathead wood screws to secure the face frames together. Now, snug the cabinets against the wall. Check the face frames with your level, and use shims between the wall and the cabinet backs as needed to ensure the faces of the cabinets remain vertical. Repeat these steps for the remaining upper cabinets.

Install the lower cabinets

The lower cabinets are installed in much the same manner. Begin with a corner cabinet, especially if you have a Lazy Susan. Make sure the corner cabinet is shimmed so that it's plumb and level in both directions. Next, set the first cabinets in place that are immediately adjacent to the left and right of the corner cabinet.

Clamp and then screw the face frames together. This will give you a long corner assembly to work from in the corner, which will help you align the corner accurately.

From there, work out in each direction to complete the runs. As with the upper cabinets, calculate the overall length of the run, and make up any odd inches with fillers, dividing them up so that they give the best overall appearance.

At the sink, you have two choices. You can carefully measure for each one of the pipes, and drill the necessary holes to accommodate the plumbing. Or you can cut a large, square hole in the back of the cabinet that will accommodate all of the plumbing at once, which makes installation easier; keep the hole symmetrical to the overall size of the cabinet for best appearance.

As you install the lower cabinets, constantly check and adjust them for plumb along the faces and level along the tops by adding shims under and behind the cabinets. Screw the cabinets loosely to the wall studs as you go, and use the screws and the shims to make final adjustments to the run before tightening everything down.

Complete the installation

The last step in the installation is to install any accessory items, such as roll-out drawers, wine racks and the like. Install crown moldings, toe kick covers and other trim, and then remount the doors. Most modular cabinets have hinge systems that adjust in three planes -- vertically, diagonally, and in and out -- so your very last step will be to carefully adjust all the doors for even alignment and smooth operation.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Fall is in the air already, which means that another chilly winter can't be too far behind. So before the cold weather arrives, here's your annual checklist of things to do to get your home ready for the change of season.

Inside your home

Check smoke detectors: Don't neglect that smoke detector any longer! Take some time right now to check the operation of detectors, and to change the batteries. If you have an older house with a limited number of smoke detectors, install additional ones at each sleeping room, and make sure there is one centrally located on each level of the home as well.

Install a carbon monoxide detector: As houses get closed up for winter, the chances of carbon monoxide poisoning from malfunctioning gas appliances increases substantially. If you have a furnace, fireplace, water heater, or other appliance that's fueled by propane or natural gas, or if you have an attached garage, install a carbon monoxide detector. They're available inexpensively from many home centers and other retailers, and offer easy, plug-in installation.

Service your heating system: Perform a complete system check of your furnace annually, either by yourself or by a trained furnace technician. Check for worn belts, lubrication needs or other servicing that might be required; refer to your owner's manual for specific suggestions, and follow any manufacturer safety instructions for shutting the power and fuel to the furnace before servicing. Check the condition of duct joints and insulation, and of course, change the filter.

Upgrade your thermostat: An older thermostat that's a couple of degrees off can result in a lot of wasted energy, and so can forgetting to set the thermostat down at night. You can take care of both of those problems with an upgrade to a programmable thermostat. Programmable thermostats are digital and typically very accurate, and they allow for easy, set-and-forget programming of temperatures for different times of the day, including energy-saving nighttime and workday setbacks.

Outside your home

Trim trees: Trees that are overhanging your home can be a real hazard. They can deposit debris on your roof, scrape against shingles during wind storms, and, worst of all, snap off with potentially devastating results. Have a professional tree trimming service inspect the condition of overhanging tree limbs, and safely cut them back as needed.

Check the gutters: Clear the gutters of leaf and pine needle debris, and check that the opening between the gutter and the downspout is unobstructed. Look for loose joints or other structural problems with the system, and repair them as needed using pop rivets. Use a gutter sealant to seal any connections where leaks may be occurring.

Break out the caulk: A few hours and few tubes of caulking can make a big difference in both your heating bills and your comfort levels this winter. Caulk around windows, doors, pipes, exterior electrical outlets, and any other exterior penetrations where cold air might enter. Use a good grade of acrylic latex caulk, either in a paintable white or, if you don't want to paint, use clear.

Drain sprinkler systems: In colder areas, now is the time to be thinking about having your sprinkler and irrigation systems blown out. You can rent a compressor and do this yourself, or contact a landscape or irrigation system installer and have them handle this for you. This is also the time to shut off outdoor faucets and install freeze-proof faucet covers as needed.

Adjust exterior grade: Fall is also a great time to look at the grade around your home, and make sure that everything slopes away from your foundation to avoid costly problems with ground water. Add, remove or adjust soil grades as necessary for good drainage.

Change light timers: If you have exterior lights that are controlled by timers, including low-voltage ones, check the timer settings. Change the "on" times to an earlier hour to reflect the earlier winter darkness, so that you always have adequate outside light available.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Before winter's bad weather can catch up to you, if you're having any problems with your roof, this is the time to get those repairs out of the way.

Even when your shingles appear to be holding their own up there, you could have problems with flashings, attic and plumbing vents, and other penetrations into the house that can allow water to enter, creating the potential for big problems down the road.

Repairs begin with an inspection, both inside and outside. You or a qualified, licensed roofing contractor should do a thorough inspection of the roof to examine the condition of several key areas. Look at the attic vents to see if there's any evidence of cracking, loose or torn screens, loose fasteners or other problems.

Examine plumbing vents for worn, loose, cracked or brittle seals around pipes. Check flashings around chimneys, wood stove flues, siding intersections, skylights and other areas for evidence of loose fasteners, bending, denting, water leaks, or other issues that need to be taken care of.

From inside the attic, look for water staining on the rafters, ceiling joists and roof sheathing that might indicate a possible leak. Also look for areas of insulation that appear crusty on top, or that are flattened out or depressed, indicating that water has been dripping there.

If you spot something, remember that the water leak may not be directly overhead. With roof leaks, water often runs down at an angle from above, so you may have to do a little detective work to trace the leak back to its origin.

Roof vent and plumbing vent replacement

If you find an attic vent that needs to be replaced, first locate a replacement one of the same size. That will help you avoid having to make any changes to the size of the hole that's already existing in the roof sheathing.

Working from the bottom up, carefully work a flat pry bar between the shingles around the vent to break the tar seal between them. Very carefully -- and this is best done when the shingles are warm -- lift the upper shingles to expose the nails or staples holding them in place over the vent. Remove the fasteners with your pry bar. Be careful not to bend the shingle too far or you'll snap it off.

When you've exposed the roof vent, you can remove the fasteners that hold it in place and slip it out of position. Install the new vent, and fasten it down with new roofing nails. Reverse the procedure to reinstall the old shingles. To avoid the possibility of additional damage from your hammer, it's better to use an air-driven nailer or stapler instead of hand-driven nails.

To ensure a good seal, apply a few dabs of roofing cement to the underside of the upper shingle and press it carefully and firmly down onto the new shingle.

Plumbing vents are replaced in much the same manner, except for the fact that you have to slip the vent up and off the pipe.

In some cases this is easy to do, in other cases you may have to cut the pipe in the attic, pull it down through the plumbing vent, replace the old plumbing vent with a new one, and then reinstall the pipe. The pipe can be reattached in the attic with a coupling.

Flashing repairs

Flashings rarely need to be replaced unless they've been damaged, such as by a falling tree limb or other impact. Typically, they need only to be refastened and resealed. You can fasten flashings using wide-headed roofing nails, or roofing screws with a washer underneath. Don't simply drive existing fasteners back into existing holes, as they'll just come loose again.

After the flashings have been resecured, seal them with a flashing sealant approved for that use. Flashing sealants are available in caulking tubes, and are easy to apply with a standard caulking gun.

New nailer simplifies roof repairs

If you have a lot of roof repairs to do, or if you're a roofing contractor or handyman who's often faced with roof repair situations, Duo-Fast recently introduced the Cordless Roofing Coil Nailer (Model DFCR175C, $459) that really makes life easier.

It operates on a combination of a battery and a fuel cell, and drives 1 1/4- to 1 3/4-inch roofing nails without a compressor and hose.

The nailer weighs just 7.5 pounds, and will drive about 900 nails on a fuel cell. Simply slip in the fuel cell and a charged battery, put in a coil of nails, and you're ready to go. For improved convenience and safety on the roof, the complete kit also includes a backpack that carries the nailer, nails, battery and fuel cell.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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It's something we'd all just as soon avoid, but there's no getting around it: We're all getting older. And that's something worth keeping in mind as you plan and remodel your home. The concept of "aging in place" -- making changes to your home to make it more comfortable and more adapted to your needs as you age -- is one that's been gaining a lot of popularity, especially in these tough economic times.

There are a number of things you can do, large and small, that will help make your home work for you instead of against you as you age. And many manufacturers are taking note of this trend as well, offering a wide range of innovative and attractive products so your home can also remain every bit as stylish as you'd like.

Doors

Doors can be one of the biggest obstacles to easy movement in the home. Consider opening up smaller doorways to create 34- or 36-inch doorways wherever possible. Another alternative is to use a pair of 18- or even 24-inch pocket doors to make a nice wide opening that's also very attractive.

To make doors easier to open, replace doorknobs with levers. Replace exterior steps with simple ramps, or combination step/ramps. With more extensive remodeling projects, also consider making hallways wider -- ideally 48 inches.

Toilets

Many companies are now offering "comfort-height" toilets, which are about 2 inches taller than standard toilets. These are easier to get on and off of, especially for people with sore backs or weaker legs. Wherever possible, plan on more free space in front of and to the sides of the toilet to allow for easier movement, especially for a walker or wheelchair.

Grab bars

Grab bars are a very useful addition in the bathroom: in the tub, shower and around the toilet. For safety and security, they need to be properly anchored to solid wood, so if you're remodeling your bathroom, be sure to install some blocking in the walls; it's a simple and inexpensive thing to do, even if you're not planning on installing grab bars right away.

Don't like the institutional look of chrome grab bars? A growing number of companies are offering them in colors, ranging from bright white to shiny black and everything in between, in both acrylics and powder-coated metal. There are also some sleek new styles available.

Tubs and showers

There are some simple things you can do to make using your tub or shower easier to use. In addition to grab bars, a seat can be a real plus. These can be portable, or one of the fold-up versions that are attached to the wall. There are many different styles available, in everything from plastic to very stylish teak.

Lever-handle controls are easier to grip and turn than ones with smooth knobs. That applies to the sinks as well as shower and tub controls. Think about where you'll be standing -- or sitting -- in the tub or shower, and place the controls at a convenient location. Make sure that you install anti-scald valves, and install hand-held spray heads. Also, install a shelf at a convenient location for soap and shampoo, to prevent dangerous reaching or stooping over.

Barrier-free shower stalls are well worth considering if you're redoing your bathroom. One company I spoke with at the recent Pacific Coast Builders Show was demonstrating a very innovative, dam-free shower pan that's installed on the floor, then sealed in place with a membrane. The entire bathroom floor and pan are then tiled over, creating a seamless, barrier-free installation that's sleek, attractive and anything but institutional. You can check them out at www.designwithoutbarriers.com.

Another innovative idea comes from the folks at Kohler, with their new Elevance bathtub. This truly unique tub has a vertically sliding wall in front. The wall drops down to create a chair-height seat for easy access into the tub. Sit down, swing your legs in, then raise the wall -- it takes only 5 pounds of force to lift. Fill the tub, and the special double seals snap into place to seal the wall against leakage. When you're done enjoying your bath, drain the water, then lower the wall for easy access to get out. You can see it here and also get a link to a video of it in action.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Life would be really easy for the do-it-yourselfer if solid wood were behind all the drywall in your house. Then every time you needed to install a shelf or hang something heavy, you could just drive in a screw and be done with it.

Alas, that's not the case, and so instead we have a group of fasteners that are lumped together under the general heading of "drywall anchors." Drywall anchors are designed to be installed into the drywall where there's no wood, and give you a solid place to attach whatever it is you're looking to hang.

If you've looked on the shelf in your local home center or hardware store, you've no doubt noticed there are many different drywall anchors to choose from. Let's try to clear up a little bit of the confusion.

Plastic anchors

Plastic anchors are some of the most common of the drywall anchors, and are the ones you'll often find included free with the hardware packet in different home improvement items you buy. Plastic anchors are also the lightest-duty drywall anchors.

To use the anchor, you first need to drill a pilot hole in the drywall. It's important that the hole be the correct diameter for the anchor being used, because if it's too large, the anchor will rotate in the hole and won't grip correctly, and if it's too small, it'll distort as you drive it into place. The pilot-hole diameter should be listed on the packaging.

After drilling the hole, tap the anchor into place until the anchor's shoulder is flat against the wall. Ribs on the outside of the anchor grip the drywall, and hold the anchor in place.

A screw that's matched to the anchor in diameter and length is driven into the anchor to expand it inside the hole, locking it in place. Once the anchor is locked, the screw can be removed and reused, and the anchor will remain in place.

Plastic wall anchors are sized according to the length and diameter of the matching screw, so select one based on how big a screw you need for what you're hanging.

Hollow wall anchors

For medium-duty use, there are the hollow wall anchors, also commonly known as "molly bolts." Some types require that a pilot hole be drilled in the drywall first, while others have a pointed end and can be driven into the drywall with a hammer.

With either type, once the anchor has been inserted or driven into the wall, the preinstalled screw is tightened. Tightening the screw pulls the end of the anchor forward, toward the back side of the drywall. As it does, the metal sides of the anchor distort into a mushroom shape, locking the anchor against the wall.

Once the anchor is locked, you can remove the screw from the anchor, insert it through whatever it is you want to hang, then reinstall the screw into the anchor. Screws can be removed and reinstalled with this type of anchor.

Hollow wall anchors are sized for the thickness of the material they'll be installed in, and the length of the screw. They're available for 1/2-inch-thick and 5/8-inch-thick drywall, as well as thinner materials such as hollow doors.

Drive anchors

Drive anchors are very easy to use, and offer both medium- and heavy-duty applications in both plastic and metal varieties. Both types are self-drilling and don't require a pilot hole -- they're installed by simply screwing them into the drywall with a screw gun. Both types have wide screw threads that cut and grip into the drywall. After the anchor itself is installed in the wall, a screw is driven into it to expand the anchor, locking it in place. The screw can then be removed and reused.

Drive anchors are typically available in only one screw diameter, but can be used with different screw lengths.

Toggle bolts

A toggle bolt is a long machine-threaded screw with a pair of spring-loaded metal wings at the end. First, drill a pilot hole of the correct diameter. Insert the toggle bolt through the object you wish to attach, then compress the wings and push them into the hole in the wall.

Push the screw into the wall until the wings pop open again inside the wall. Pull back on the screw so the wings are in contact with the back of the wall, and tighten the screw. Toggle bolts work well for heavier installations, but if you remove the screw, the toggle wings inside the wall are lost.

Toggle bolts are sized by the diameter and length of the screw, depending on the thickness of the wall and the thickness of the object you're attaching.

Another type of toggle bolt is called the SnapToggle. It works in a similar fashion, but has a different design that allows the wing to remain in place if the bolt is removed. SnapToggles are a little more expensive than conventional toggle bolts, but are faster and easier to install, and are a better choice if you intend to remove the item being fastened.

Drywall anchors are available at home centers, hardware stores, lumberyards, and many other retailers. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's specific instructions for installation and load ratings.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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While obviously unsightly, the presence of mildew on interior or exterior surfaces is more than just a cosmetic problem. It's almost always an indicator of a deeper and potentially more destructive moisture condition.

Painting over it won't cure the condition, as the mildew will return sooner or later, and in the meantime the hidden moisture is working away at insulation, wood framing and other parts of your house.

Mildew, a form of mold, is most often seen as a black or sometimes white or greenish growth on siding, drywall, roofing and in other areas. In order to grow, mildew first of all needs a food source.

Because mildew likes organic materials, the typical home offers lots of choices, including drywall, wood, paper, wallpaper paste, cotton, linen, leather, wool and many other materials and surfaces.

In addition to the food, mildew will grow best in areas where it's moist and warm, and where there's a general lack of sunlight and air circulation.

Interior

Inside your house, one of the most common areas where mildew growth is seen is in the bathroom, where warm, moist air is at its most concentrated. Typically, the only thing needed to combat moisture here is the installation of a ventilation fan.

Make sure that it's ducted all the way to the outside of the house, not just into the attic! And, of course, the fan needs to get used, both during and immediately after using the bath or shower.

If you're having trouble getting people to follow this rule, then you can ensure that the fan gets used by having it wired to the bathroom's overhead light so the two come on together, or to a timer control. If the fan is used regularly, you'll remove the moisture and circulate the air, and you shouldn't have any trouble containing the moisture before mildew can start.

If a ventilation fan isn't enough, then you have more moisture being generated in the bathroom than just that from the shower.

Common hidden moisture sources include a leak in the tub or shower valves or supply pipes; loose and leaking drain lines; a bad wax ring seal below the toilet that's allowing seepage; or moisture buildup on the floor around the tub or shower from bad caulk joints or excessive splashing from tub users.

Detecting this moisture can be difficult, as the source is usually concealed and you typically won't even know you have a problem until it becomes bad enough to show visible signs -- a buckled floor, crumbly drywall, etc. Here's one place where the presence of mildew is a blessing in disguise, because it tells you there's moisture present before it causes real damage.

Once you begin to see the mildew, your best bet is to contact a contractor who specializes in water damage restoration; most have sophisticated moisture meters that can help you track down the problem.

Other interior mildew problem areas can arise in closets, and behind beds and other furniture -- especially those placed on exterior walls. This is typically the result of poor air circulation, combined with high humidity.

In the closet, try removing some of the clothes so that they're not as densely packed. Leave the door open or replace the door with one that's louvered to allow air to circulate. There are also moisture-absorbing chemicals such as silica gel that can help you get rid of excess moisture in specific trouble areas.

In bedrooms and other areas, move furniture away from walls so air can circulate. Keep clothes and other items from accumulating on the floor and in piles on furniture, and keep things as clean as possible to keep food sources and accumulated moisture to a minimum.

Exterior

On the outside of your house, the two areas you're most likely to see mildew is on the siding and on the roof shingles, and here again it's the early warning sign of a moisture problem.

If the problem is localized to one or two patches of siding or roofing, then the moisture source is typically easy to track down. Some possibilities for localized mildew on siding include sprinkler heads that are misaligned, leaking or improperly adjusted; an underground leak in a water or sewer line; moisture accumulation from a dryer vent or exhaust fan vent; trees, shrubbery or other landscaping that's overgrown; and other similar "spot" sources.

Do a little detective work in the areas of the mildew, and the problem is often easy to find and correct.

On the roof, mildew often forms in areas where trees overhang the roof, or where leaves or pine needles accumulate. Clearing debris off the roof and trimming overhanging branches will often be enough to solve the problem.

You may also need to open up the areas around your house by removing or trimming closely packed trees which will allow sunlight and prevailing winds to reach mildewed areas and dry them out.

Widespread areas of mildew on walls and roof indicate a larger moisture problem, one that can usually be traced back to a lack of ventilation.

If you have a high level of humidity inside the house that is not being adequately dealt with, normal pressure and convection will move the moisture into wall cavities and attic spaces. Once it's there, a lack of ventilation will contribute to the moisture, forming mildew.

To combat this, first you need to deal with moisture inside the house through the use of ventilation fans in the kitchen, bathroom and laundry; mitigation of high-moisture sources such as indoor spas and hot tubs; reducing the number of house plants; or perhaps installing a dehumidifier.

In the attic, be sure you have an adequate number of roof vents to allow moisture to dissipate naturally to the outside.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: I have a friend who has mounted soaker hoses on each side of the ridge row of his roof to help cool it. The hoses are connected to a sprinkler timer and come on six times during the hottest part of the day. They stay on long enough to wet the whole roof. Our houses are about the same size, but his house is two-story with a gabled roof and has a smaller roof area than mine.

My house is single-story with a hip roof. One day I tested cooling the roof with a sprinkler. I think the water covered about 60 percent of the roof area. The temperature in my attic was about 10 degrees lower than the day before, but the air conditioner seemed to run just as much as usual. So my questions are: What would be the long-term effect on a composition roof of wetting it to cool it, and do you think there would be any savings by doing so? --Larry T.

A: This is an interesting question, and I'm glad you did the experiment.

Your home is going to gain heat from a number of different sources, and that's what your air conditioner is trying to offset. Those sources include heat from the sun through your roof and exterior walls; ambient heat from the outside air, through the roof, walls and glass; and interior heat-makers such as appliances, electronics, and, of course, occupants.

The walls, ceiling and floor of the house make up what's known as the home's envelope, and we live inside that envelope of cooled or heated air. The better the envelope does at keeping heat out in summer (and cold out in the winter), the more comfortable the occupants are.

There are many ways to improve the performance of the home's envelope. What you're trying to do is cool the attic through an external means -- applying water to the roofing. While in theory that's going to be helpful, it has an awful lot of drawbacks as well, and as you've seen through your experiment, it has only minimal benefits to the actual attic temperatures.

First of all, this technique wastes an awful lot of water. And assuming you have to pay for the water -- even if you're drawing it from a well, you have to pay for the electricity to pump it -- you're wasting money. Those costs are going to offset any potential savings you're going to realize from reducing the attic temperatures.

All that water also has to go somewhere, so you're also increasing the potential for problems in your basement or crawlspace.

Another issue is what the constant flow of water across the roofing is doing. It could cause premature aging of the shingles and washing away of the granules, as well as the formation of mildew. Unfortunately, if you ever have a problem with your roofing, this would almost certainly void the warranty as well.

What I'd like to see you do instead are passive techniques to improve the overall performance of the envelope. These require a single, upfront expenditure of time and money, but no ongoing expense, so they're better for your wallet and better for the environment. Many will also pay benefits during the winter as well. These include:

• Increase the amount of attic insulation so that the heat that's in the attic has less opportunity to get into the house.
• Verify that you have the proper amount of attic ventilation, which is the best way to cool your attic. You should have about 1 square foot of vent area for every 300 square feet of attic space, roughly split between high and low, or with a little bit more on the low side. Add more vents if needed.
• Plant trees that will shade the roof of the house, especially on the hot sides of the house.
• Install insulated window coverings or solar shades, and keep them down during the hottest parts of the day to decrease heat gain.
• Install exterior awnings or pergolas that are slanted to block summer sunlight over windows that get the most heat gain, especially west-facing windows.
• Whenever possible, run appliances at night, such as dishwashers and clothes dryers.
• Consider installing a whole-house fan to take advantage of cool outside air, and take the load off your air conditioner.
• Replace older, single-pane windows and skylights, especially those with metal frames, with energy-efficient vinyl- or wood-frame insulated glass windows.

Q: What about a Tung oil finish (for wood floors)? Where do I get it? That's what our out-of-business finisher used. --Karhoff

A: It really depends on what you mean by a Tung oil finish. Pure Tung oil is exactly that -- an oil. It's sometimes used for finishing floors, but it's not one of the more common floor finishes. You can read a good article about pure Tung oil floor finishes at realmilkpaint.com/floortung.html.

More common is a Tung oil blend such as Waterlox. It has greater durability and water resistance, and is typically what floor finishers are referring to when they talk about a Tung oil finish. You can get their product through a variety of retailers, but their website is waterlox.com.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: I have a home at the beach that was built in 1960, so it has no insulation and the frame is not attached to the foundation. Plus it has lath and plaster walls that have either had water problems or something else on the walls that cause it not to look nice. I plan to remodel before moving in.

Should I consider stripping all the walls and ceiling of the lath and plaster to see the condition of the stucco paper, attach the house frame to the foundation and insulate it? The expense in the winter here for heat is not much, but then again the house is not that big either, maybe 1,100 square feet. This might afford me to update electrical, inspect framing for any damage, and add gas lines, etc., where needed. What do you think? --Bob D.

A: In my experience, whenever you have the opportunity to completely or substantially "gut" the interior of a home during a remodel, it's always greatly to your advantage. You can spot and repair water and insect damage, correct any structural deficiencies, and update areas that may have been built to code at the time of the original construction, but that don't meet today's codes.

Relocating walls, doors, windows and other structural components of the home is much easier. Getting the exact layout of electrical, plumbing and mechanical systems is greatly simplified, as is the layout of things many people don't think about, such as sound systems and computer cabling.

You also have the opportunity not only to insulate effectively, but also to completely seal tiny air leaks around plumbing and electrical penetrations in the walls for the greatest possible energy efficiency.

After all the rough work is done, your finish work will be better as well. You don't have all that patching to worry about, as well as plaster cracking to deal with. Instead, you can start with fresh drywall throughout, with a uniform texture.

The third big advantage is that it's simply easier. The demolition mess is over and done with quickly at the start of the job, rather than repeating itself in smaller dust-making chunks over and over again. And if you're hiring contractors to do the remodeling work, it should be less expensive all the way around because they're working with wide open framing.

Q: I am planning to add on to my existing deck, but a couple of the boards were warped from neglect. Can I replace the boards and continue the deck further out? I recently had to remove three trees that were damaged, and I decided to use them as a border and want to add them to the deck as plant holders. What do I need to treat the trees with to keep the natural beauty and prevent termites? I have woods as part of my property and want to incorporate the look with my deck. --Jacqueline P.

A: You should be able to add onto the existing deck, depending on its current construction and the condition of the structural framing. I would suggest that you have a contractor come out to remove the warped deck boards; examine the underlying deck framing for damage, dry rot and other structural issues; and then come up with a design for extending it.

As far as adding the old trees to the existing deck as planters, a lot of that depends on why they were damaged and why you decided to take them out. There are a number of things that can happen to trees that can be passed along to the wood on your deck if the two are allowed to be in contact with one another for any length of time.

For that decision, you really need to consult with a certified arborist or other expert who can tell you what damaged the trees, and specifically what chemicals -- if any -- can be used for treating the wood to preserve it.

Q: I have a single-level, 1,700-square-foot house on a level lot. It was last painted around 1995 before we purchased the home in October 1995. My husband and I plan to paint the exterior soon and I was wondering if you have ballpark estimates for exterior paint jobs.

Also, the rain gutters need to be replaced. Is it better to replace before painting or after painting? --Jane D.

A: I can't really help you out much with painting prices, because so much depends on how much prep work needs to be done, how much trim there is to paint, how much moving and masking is involved, and other issues that will affect the price.

Your best bet is to have at least two reputable, licensed painting contractors inspect the house and give you an estimate. The estimates need to be in writing, and need to include all the details of the work being proposed, including any preparation and repair work that they'll be doing. Ask for and verify their contractor's license number, bond and insurance, and ask for some local references of people they've done work for.

As far as the gutters are concerned, it depends on whether you plan to paint them. Many gutters are available in a wide variety of factory-applied colors, and if you like one of those colors then the gutters should be applied after the painting is complete.

If you want the gutters painted to match the house, then opt for a white gutter and have it installed prior to the painting, then the contractor can paint them along with the house. In either case, let the contractors know what your intentions are with the gutters so they can estimate the work accordingly.

On the subject of gutters, I'm a big fan of seamless gutters. Each piece is custom-fabricated right on site, and you end up with a cleaner, finished look and a lot less joints to worry about. As with the painters, get estimates and references from two licensed gutter contractors.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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If you'd like to improve your outdoor living space but desire an alternative to a wood deck or a boring concrete-slab patio, look no further than concrete pavers. Beautiful, durable, and available in a wide range of colors and patterns, pavers can give you whatever look you're after.

You can create a simple square patio or an intricate showpiece in complex curves. Walkways, eating areas, play areas, a spot for that shiny new gas grill -- they're all possible with these versatile paving stones. And with a little work, they're also a great do-it-yourself project that will add not only bring satisfaction and outdoor enjoyment, but also add resale value to your home.

Pick a pattern and a color

At your local home center, lumberyard or other retailer of paving stone products, you'll be able to get a look at the many different stones available. They range from uniform squares and rectangles to ones that appear to have a more random, flagstone appearance.

Look at the different displays and brochures available, and you'll also see how the stones can be mixed and matched in different configurations to create patterns. Even those seemingly random flagstones actually fit together in a pattern.

There are also lots of colors available, especially in the earth tones. You can stick with a single color or you can blend complementary tones. If you want, you can also use contrasting colors to create a pattern within a pattern, such as a big sundial in the middle of the patio. It's all up to your imagination!

Once you've made your decision, the dealer can help you determine the number of pavers needed for your specific area and the pattern you've selected, and will arrange delivery to your site.

Layout and preparation

Next comes the actual layout. Mark the layout directly on the ground using spray paint, then remove any grass or other landscaping as needed, and rake the soil to remove rocks and debris. Using a long, straight board and a level, or, better yet, a laser level, which can be rented, and begin rough-grading the soil.

For drainage, paver installations should slope a minimum of 1 1/2 inches or more every 10 feet. Use a gas-powered flat plate compactor, which can also be rented, to compact the soil.

Next comes a layer of approximately 4 inches of paver base rock material or 3/4 "minus" gravel, which is available from wherever you buy your pavers, or from any retailer of landscaping supplies. Level the gravel, then compact it.

Next comes the sand base, which needs to be 1 inch thick. To simplify measuring this thickness, make some guides from long pieces of 1-inch plastic pipe. Simply lay the pipe down on the compacted gravel, pour on the sand, then smooth and level the sand by running a straight board along the tops of your pipes. Remove the pipes, fill in the remaining areas, and mist the sand with water to settle it in.

Install the pavers

Start up against the house, in order to give yourself a straight starting point. Lay full pavers on the sand base in the pattern you've predetermined. Use a long level to make sure the pavers are level. If they're high, tap them down with a rubber mallet. If they're low, add some paver sand under them, then tap them down. Continue laying out full pavers until you have all of them installed, making certain that you carefully follow your pattern design.

Where you need to cut pavers, use a diamond-bladed wet saw, which you can get from any rental yard. Mark the cut lines with a masonry crayon, and cut along the line with the wet saw -- be sure you're wearing hand, ear and eye protection while cutting, as well as a dust mask.

At the outside edges, away from the house, secure the pavers with a flexible plastic retaining edge. Simply place the edge firmly up against the pavers so that the top of the retaining edge is below the pavers, then secure the retainer in place with spikes driven into the ground.

When all the pavers are installed, compact them with the plate compactor until they are uniformly level and are at the desired grade. Spread a final layer of coarse, dry sand over the top of the pavers and work the sand into the cracks with a push broom.

Spray the installation with a light mist of water to help settle the sand, then repeat with additional sand after the installation has had a couple of days to settle.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Oscillating tools are interesting little guys, and you may have never seen one in action -- or even thought you'd ever really have a reason to own one. But if you do much remodeling or repair work around your home, you might want to think again.

These tools are incredibly handy for a wide variety of tasks, some of which are difficult or almost impossible to accomplish effectively with any other tool. And with so many manufacturers now offering oscillating tools to meet the growing demand, prices have come down and features have come up, so you win both ways.

What is an oscillating tool?

Take a look at all the other power tools you own, and you'll see that the oscillating tool is totally unique. Circular saws, disk sanders, screwdrivers and impact wrenches all spin in a circle, while tools like reciprocating and jigsaws move blades in an in-and-out motion.

But the oscillating tool moves its attachments back and forth through a narrow, 3-degree arc at speeds of up to 20,000 oscillations per minute. It's that high-speed, narrow arc, combined with the proper attachment, that gets the work done with surprising ease.

The attachments are mounted to the bottom front of the tool. Most tools use a simple hex nut and washer attachment system, somewhat similar to the bolt that holds a blade onto a circular saw. To change the attachment, you need to completely remove the bolt and the washer. Some manufacturers allow accessory changing by just loosening the bolt without removing it, and some have gone a step further and made the change-out completely tool-less.

You'll find a wide variety of attachments available for whatever task you need to perform. There are sanding pads, which are ideal for detail sanding jobs such as moldings, corners, spindles, and inside areas such as cabinets and drawers.

There are a variety of cutting blades designed for wood, drywall or metal. You can get carbide-covered blades that make short work of removing the grout between tiles. There are rigid scraper blades that are great for tasks such as scraping up old vinyl, and flexible scrapers for more delicate jobs.

During a recent bathroom remodel I got a better look at the versatility of these handy little tools. During the demo stage, I cut off several protruding nails in awkward spots; cut out drywall in clean lines down the center of the studs; then cut out perfect rectangles in the drywall for electrical cut-in boxes.

Later, I undercut two doorjambs to fit new ceramic tile, and cut out a damaged piece of baseboard in the middle of the wall -- something that's virtually impossible with any other type of tool.

The tile setter used his for trimming some travertine tile, and for cutting cement board. I saw the plumber using one to cut out copper pipe in a tight floor joist area, and for plunge-cutting a hole in the subfloor. Definitely a versatile tool!

Shopping for an oscillating tool

Oscillating tools are available in both corded and cordless varieties, and the trade-off here is pretty much the same as with any other type of tool: convenience versus extended runtime. Corded versions are your best choice if you expect to use them for extended periods of time, such as large sanding, scraping or grout removal jobs. For shorter jobs, you'll still get plenty of power from the cordless versions, and as long as you have a second battery available the added convenience is tough to beat.

Initially, all the accessories were proprietary, meaning that those from a particular manufacturer only fit that manufacturer's tool. Now, however, most manufacturers offer universal adapters so their tool can be used with any brand of accessory -- a feature I'd definitely suggest looking for, since the accessories can be expensive and you want to be able to shop for the best deal.

Here are four models to consider:

• Milwaukee 2426-20 (Cordless, $149): very comfortable and powerful, with a long run time. 12 speed settings (5,000 to 20,000 OPM, or orbits per minute), and an onboard fuel gauge to show remaining battery life. Weighs just 2.1 pounds, with a conveniently located on/off switch and an overmolded top. It includes an adaptor that accepts all popular accessories. The complete kit includes two 12-volt lithium ion batteries, 30-minute charger, an assortment of accessories, and a smallish soft-side carrying case.

• Dremel 8300-01 (Cordless, $130): also very comfortable, with rubber overmolding at key points both top and bottom. Variable speeds from 3,000 to 21,000 OPM, and separate on/off and speed-control switches. It also has a soft-start feature and an on-board fuel gauge. Accessories can be changed without completely removing the bolt. This tool uses only Dremel accessories, but a universal adaptor is available separately. The complete kit includes two 12-volt lithium ion batteries, 1-hour charger, several accessories, and a roomy hard case.

• Bosch MX25EC-21 (Corded, $140): a robust tool that's designed to be a real workhorse. It features a 2.5-amp motor, and a variable speed dial (8,000 to 20,000 OPM) that's separate from the on/off switch. Special electronic circuitry keeps the speed constant under load. It includes a universal adapter to fit all popular accessories; a well-designed soft case with internal straps to keep the tool in place; and an internal hard case for storing and organizing the included cutting and sanding accessories.

• Porter-Cable PC250MTK (Corded, $120): a new entry from Porter-Cable, with the very unique feature of a tool-less blade change. It's a clever system that requires only squeezing a spring-loaded handle to release tension on the washer to remove the blade. It has a 2.5-amp motor, a comfortable grip, and a separate variable speed dial (10,000 to 20,000 OPM). It includes a fitted hard case and a selection of sanding and cutting accessories.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Hardwood floors are a beautiful feature in homes of any style. But if yours are showing their age and the wear and tear of scratches, sun-fading, and countless kid and dog miles, refinishing is the ideal way to breathe new life into them. Refinishing your floors will also blend in any repaired areas, and is the best way to make transitions between old and new rooms come together seamlessly.

Refinishing hardwood floors is a two-step process, with an optional third one depending on your preference. The floors first have to be sanded, then they're coated with a new finish material. The optional step, done in between, is staining, which is done if you wish to add any type of color beyond that of the natural wood.

Getting ready

First of all, you have to determine if you have "real" hardwood floors that can be sanded and refinished. Laminate floors, of course, are not designed to be refinished. But more confusing are some of the engineered wood floors. These are strips of plywood or other substrate materials covered with a thin top layer of hardwood. Some engineered floors have a layer that's thick enough to allow for one sanding.

If you've removed carpet from the area, be sure all the pad staples and tack strip nails are out. Fill any holes and repaired areas with putty. If you'll be staining the floor, use a stainable putty, or a precolored putty that's the color of the finished floor. Finally, remove the baseboards, and number them in order so you can easily reinstall them.

Sanding creates lots of dust! So, next you want to get the area ready. Tape plastic sheeting over doorways and over any cabinets. Remove anything hanging on the walls. Remove or cover light fixtures. Consider opening a window and placing a fan in front of it to draw dust outside. If your return air grill is located in the room where you're sanding, cover it, and shut the power to the furnace so that dust isn't circulated throughout the house.

Sanding

You can rent the upright drum sander used for sanding hardwood floors at any rental yard, and they'll supply you with the necessary sandpaper as well. These sanders are heavy beasts, and they can be a little tricky to use. Tip the sander back, start the drum in motion, then lower it into contact with the floor. Keep a firm grip on the handles, since the sander will want to pull you forward.

Don't start the sander with the drum in contact with the floor, because it will create deep gouges that are hard to get out.

As you approach the wall, stop before you hit it. Sand with the direction of the grain, and don't let the sander sit on the floor in one spot for long, or you'll gouge it.

If the floor is badly scratched or warped, start with 24- to 36-grit paper. Then, switch to 50- to 60-grit paper and go over it again. For a floor that's not too badly damaged, you can start with the 50-grit.

After doing the main part of the floor, finish off the edges using an edge sander, which can also be rented. This is like a big disk sander with casters, and is guided along the edge of the wall. Use a left-to-right sanding motion to feather in the sanding marks left by the drum sander. Corners and other hard to reach areas can be done with a pad sander. Final sanding is done to 100- to 120-grit using a sanding screen, which is similar to a floor buffer. This can also be rented.

Remember to wear a dust mask and hearing protection for all of the sanding steps. Finally, vacuum the floor to remove all remaining dust. Don't use a damp rag to clean it, as that can raise the wood's grain

Stain and finish

If you choose to stain the wood, that's the next step. Liquid, oil-based stains are typically used for hardwood floors, since they're easy to apply and don't raise the grain. Apply some stain in an inconspicuous spot or on a scrap of the same type of wood to be sure you like the color. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation, and work from one corner toward an exit.

Apply the stain with a rag, brush, pad or roller, according to the manufacturer's instructions. If the stain needs to be wiped off, you may find it easier to work with a second person -- one applying the stain and the other wiping off the excess as needed. Allow the stain to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions -- usually at least 24 hours -- before applying a top coat.

Polyurethane is a common top-finish material. It dries clear, wears well, and is easy to apply. Both oil-base and water-base versions are available.

The oil-base materials have long been the preferred choice, but water-base materials have been greatly improved in recent years, and offer a number of distinct advantages. They dry faster, clean up easier and, perhaps most important, put out a lot less odor. However, they're generally thinner and usually require a buildup of at least three coats to get a good protective finish.

Talk to an experienced paint store for their recommendations, and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully for application and safety precautions.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: What are some reasons that a homeowner should defer to the contractor to acquire a building permit? --Glen D.

A: Probably the main reason is that experienced contractors can expedite the process, and can also sometimes head off potential problems before they arise. Contractors know and understand the "system," and they typically know exactly what will be required to obtain specific types of permits.

If there are any irregularities, they also usually know who to talk to at the permit office, and may be able to resolve things more readily simply because they know the construction process and the related terminology and can suggest solutions that might not occur to a homeowner.

Also, if subcontractors are involved, the contractor will have all the necessary information about those subs that the permit office will require. All of that can also translate into a contractor being able to obtain the permit faster than you can, simply because he will have all the necessary information available on the first visit, where you may have to make multiple trips.

The actual cost of the permit is the same whether you obtain it or the contractor does. The contractor will typically charge you for his or her time, but on the other hand you save your own time in not having to deal with what is often a very confusing process.

Q: The panels of my 1977 garage door are made of fiberboard, and even though I caulk and paint, they still get wet and smelly in the winter. Can I replace the panels or must I replace the entire garage door? --Trish A.

A: You basically have three options. Option 1, depending on the style and construction of the door, is to replace the small individual panels within the framework of the door. This is done by cutting out the strips that hold the panels in place, installing new panels, and then installing new strips. However, if you have a lot of pieces to replace, this can be a pretty tedious process. You also still have the old door frame, and all the old door hardware and tracks.

Option 2 is to replace the individual door sections. This is done by first taking all the tension off the spring, then unbolting the hinges that hold the sections to one another and sliding each section out of the track. New sections are then slid into the tracks and reconnected, then the spring is rewound. You now have all new upgraded door panels, but still have the original door hardware and track. This is the best option if all the old hardware is in good condition.

Option 3 is to replace the entire door. This will give you upgraded panels, plus a new track and new hardware. I'd suggest getting a price on both option 2 and option 3, as they may not be all that much different in cost.

If you would like to do the work yourself, the door company should be able to order all the parts for you. They can also do the unwinding and rewinding of the spring. Do not attempt to wind or unwind the spring on your own, as it can be very dangerous if you don't know exactly what you're doing.

Q: I had a house fire about two years ago and had to have the interior rebuilt. When the carpet people installed the carpet they made two seams in the hall. These two seams have always been visible; they pucker up slightly above the rest of the carpet. I had the carpet folks come out and look at it.

They rolled it and trimmed it, but that didn't help. He said that was all he could do. He also said he couldn't stretch it anymore. It's been a year now and the carpet is still puckered. Do you have any suggestions? --Chuck R.

A: Unfortunately, that's not a terribly unusual situation. It typically comes about when two pieces of carpet are turned 90 degrees in relation to one another, and the "grain" of the carpet doesn't match exactly. Halls seem to be particularly susceptible to that, because they're often where smaller pieces are carpet are seamed together.

The only thing I've ever seen done is for the carpet installer to cut a small piece off the edge of one or both pieces of carpet along the bad seam, then restretch and reseam the two pieces together again. They let the seaming tape dry and cool really well, let off on the stretcher, then carefully trim the seam down with carpet scissors. Since your installer said that restretching can't be done in your case, this may or may not be possible.

Since you say it's been over a year, you're already out of the warranty period for the original contractor to do anything for you. I'd suggest you contact a different carpet store and just tell the store you have some newer carpet with a seam problem. See if the store has an experienced installer who can come out and take a look, then go from there.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Sure, it seems like the easiest thing in the world. Summer's here, you have a bunch of holes to dig for a fence or some new shrubs, so you grab a shovel and head for the yard. But hang on a second. Even with something as simple as digging a hole, there are a few tricks of the trade worth knowing about -- and why make a hard physical job even harder than it needs to be?

The right tools
First of all, gather the right tools. Holes, obviously, require shovels. But what kind? For just about any type of hole-digging project you'll encounter, from landscaping to construction, there are three tools you need to have, along with a couple of optional additions. And by the way, after you buy them, keep them clean and store them inside out of the weather, and they'll last you a lifetime.

• Round-point shovel: Skip the bargain bin, wooden-handle version. Instead, invest in a good one with a steel or fiberglass handle and a sharp blade. There are different handle lengths -- longer ones give you a little more leverage, but may feel awkward. The trade-off isn't worth it, so go with what feels most comfortable.

• Garden spade: These go by different names and come in different configurations, but what they have in common is a blade that's relatively narrow and straight. Some are completely straight across the bottom edge, and some are convexly curved. They're designed for cutting through sod and small roots, and for loosening hard soil. Their smaller blade size gets them into areas where your regular shovel won't reach.

• Post-hole digger: Also called a clam-shell digger, this tool has two handles and two curved, sharpened metal digging blades that are connected with a long bolt so they pivot. It's used for digging relatively narrow, deep holes for posts, as well as for planting smaller plants. They all work the same, so your best bet is to go with something that's light and easy to use.

Optional tools

• Trenching shovel: Here's one of your optional tools. A trenching shovel looks a lot like a standard round-point shovel, but the blade is much narrower, typically only about 4 inches wide. It's used primarily for digging narrow trenches for running wires or sprinkler pipes, but it's also great for cleaning out holes and areas that are too confined for a larger shovel.

• Digging bar: If you have to work in hard or rocky soil, then you'll probably also appreciate having a digging bar. Digging bars come in lots of different configurations, but basically it's just a long, heavy steel bar with an angled end for breaking up soil and picking out rocks. It can also be used for leverage for other tasks, such as moving heavy landscaping rocks. Some types have a flat knob on the other end that you can use for tamping.

"Call Before You Dig"
The first thing you need to do before you start digging those holes is to call 811. This is the new, federally mandated national "Call Before You Dig" number, which was created to help protect you from unintentionally hitting underground utility lines. Simply call 811, and within 48 hours they'll have the utility lines on your property marked for you, at no cost. If you don't use the service and you damage something you don't know is down there, not only is it very dangerous, you could be on the hook for some very expensive repairs!

Digging basics
Start by carefully laying out where your holes will go. If you want your posts or plants in a row, don't trust your eye -- use a string. Measure the proper locations of the hole centers, and mark them with wooden stakes.

Use your spade to cut out the sod if necessary. Set the sod aside on a tarp, and keep it moist. You can then cut it to size as needed and put it back into the lawn later, where it will quickly re-root. If you have hard soil, break it up with the spade as well.

For small, deep holes, such as those for posts, use your post-hole digger. Grasp one handle in each hand, lift the tool above the dirt, and drive it straight down. Pull the handles away from each other, which will cause the blades to pivot inward. That removes and traps the dirt. Hold the handles in that position so you don't lose the dirt, and lift it out of the hole. Move the handles back together to open the blades and dump the dirt. Repeat the process until you've reached the desired depth. Dump the dirt on a tarp, or on a sheet of plywood. It keeps it out of the grass, and makes it a lot easier to shovel back into the hole later.

If you have to leave the holes unattended, cover them with scraps of plywood. That keeps dirt from falling back in, and also prevents someone from getting hurt. If rain is coming, cover your dirt pile as well, to prevent all that soil from washing away.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Few projects are as enjoyable as building a new outdoor deck. They're fun to design and build; they look great; and they enhance both the enjoyment of your home and its resale value. Decks are also a great do-it-yourself project, and there are lots of products on the market that can help you get the job done faster, safer and with better results.

Wander the aisles of your local home center or hardware store or do an online search, and you'll find more than enough inspiration to get you itching to grab a hammer!

Deck design: Let's start at the beginning -- with a great design. If you have something in your head in the way of a perfect deck but you're not sure how to turn it into reality, start with a simple computerized drawing program. You can pick them up inexpensively at a number of retailers, and they're pretty intuitive to learn. Most not only help you design the deck in 2-D, but also do 3-D modeling, structural details, and even material lists.

If you'd prefer to have someone else tap the mouse, check with your local lumberyard. Many of them offer computerized deck design services that can save you hours of planning. The design consultant will walk you through several basic designs, and help you customize them to your exact size and layout requirements.

Structural hardware: When it comes time to do the actual framing, companies like Simpson Strong-Tie offer an incredible selection of steel framing hardware that greatly simplifies all those connections. For example, there are simple joist hangers that support and connect the joists where they attach to the ledger or rim joist, and inside angle connectors to strengthen a variety of framing joints.

Where a beam sits on top of a post, there are post cap connectors, as well as post base anchors to connect the post to the patio or pier block. There are even specialty connectors specifically designed for attaching deck railing posts to deck framing quickly and with much greater strength than simply nailing or bolting alone. Simpson's decking site is worth a visit: www.strongtie.com/deckcenter.

Duo-Fast DF150S-TC TICO Nailer: All that helpful structural hardware also means driving a whole lot of nails to make the connections work properly. So if you've got a big deck project in the works, or you're a pro who does a lot of decks, you might want to consider a pneumatic nailer to help you out.

Duo-Fast's TICO Nailer is designed specifically to drive the 1 1/2-inch, .148-shank nails required by most building codes for use with structural hangers. It's compact to get into tight spots, has a convenient rafter hook, and has an adjustable exhaust to keep the air out of your face.

Best of all is the unique "probing tip," which accurately locates the hole in the hanger before you shoot the nail. Check it out at www.duo-fastconstruction.com.

Bench brackets: Want to add a bench to your deck? Bench brackets make it easy. Made of steel or a durable resin, they bolt to both the decking and the deck framing for stability, then you add your own decking material to the top and back to form a seat and backrest.

The brackets are angled to form a comfortable backrest while eliminating all those difficult angle calculations. You can see a couple of different styles at www.rockler.com.

Precut stair stringers: If your deck design calls for steps, don't despair over how to cut the stringers. Many lumberyards and home centers carry or can order precut stringers in different lengths. They're made of pressure-treated lumber so they're safe for ground contact, and all the hard layout and cutting has been done for you.

Just select the number of steps you need based on how high the deck is, secure them to the deck and to the ground using the appropriate hardware connectors, and you're all set. Finish off the installation with treads that match your decking boards.

Railings: A deck railing adds a lot of visual interest to a deck, and it's also a code requirement if the deck will be more than 30 inches above the ground. Thanks to the tremendous interest in decks and the number of do-it-yourself deck builders, there are lots of different railing ideas that you can choose from, as well as the parts to build them with.

You can go with simple wooden pickets, which your local lumberyard will have in stock. Or you can step it up a bit with metal pickets, which are available in different colors and styles at places like www.stair-parts.com or www.deckdepot.com, or from many local welding shops. For a more open look, consider steel cables instead -- you can check out some examples at www.cablerail.com.

Remember that your new deck and railing will almost certainly require a building permit, and that certain construction standards must be adhered to for safety. Check with your local building department before you get going on any deck design or construction project.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: I just had my house sided and roofed and the contractor closed off the gable vents except for drilling six holes in the inside bottom of the decorative half-round louvers at the tops of my house. He left insulation and Tyvek on the rest of the vent. He also installed a solar fan in the attic.

I am worried that the fan will burn out since there is not enough air to suck out of the attic because of the closing off of the vents. Plus, I thought the vents were needed for a good air flow. My contractor insists that what he did is correct. Please give me your opinion or someone to call for an unbiased opinion of this procedure. --Madeline D.

A: What your contractor did is certainly not correct.

Just as you thought, proper attic ventilation is essential for several reasons. It flushes hot air out of the attic, which prolongs the life of the roofing. It removes any accumulated moisture, which helps prevent the possibility of mold as well as moisture-related structural damage to wood framing members.

And, if you live in a cold climate, the attic ventilation flushes out heat lost from the house during the winter months, which keeps the underside of the roof colder and helps to prevent ice damming. So for a number of reasons, proper ventilation is absolutely essential to your home.

The basic formula for attic ventilation is that you need approximately 1 square foot of vent area for every 300 square feet of attic area. So if you have an 1,800-square-foot house, you would need about 6 square feet of total vent area.

Those vents should be roughly divided between high and low vents to provide air flow, so that would mean about 3 square feet of vents placed low in the attic, usually in the soffits, and another 3 square feet placed high, either in the gable ends or along the ridge.

I also completely agree with you about the solar fan. If you have enough vents and they're installed in the proper places, your attic will have a sufficient amount of passive ventilation, and any type of mechanical fan isn't necessary. That way you'll never have to worry about it burning out, or lacking power from extended periods without sufficient sunlight. And solar vents typically don't have sufficient power to compensate for a lack of other ventilation anyway.

As far as independent sources that you can turn to, you have a couple. One would be your local building department. They can confirm the ventilation requirements, and can also tell you whether or not the contractor should have gotten a permit for all this work. Some jurisdictions require permits for reroofing and/or residing jobs, while others don't.

The other place to turn would be your state contractors' board. A job this size would have required a contract, which I assume you have. So in the event of a dispute, there should be arbitration assistance available through the contractors' board.

Hopefully it won't come to that. Attic ventilation is a fairly straightforward issue, so I'd start with your local building department, get some independent confirmation from them, and then have a talk with the contractor about correcting the problems.

Q: I have a deck over a patio area. We are looking at closing [the patio] in and making it a three-season room. I am looking at putting a new floor on the deck that would drain all the water away so it would be dry below. I looked at some different drain systems. Which would be the best? --Harold R.

A: What you need to do is treat the upper deck as though it were a roof. There are several very good flat-roof coatings that are laid down in overlapping sheets and then sealed together. They form a tough, waterproof coating that will definitely keep the room below dry. Most of these coatings are tough enough to walk on if you intend to use the upper deck only occasionally.

If you plan to use the upper deck on a regular basis, especially if there is a table or other furniture on it, then you will need to install a wooden walking surface on top of the roofing membrane.

Membranes of this type need to be professionally installed, especially if it will also incorporate a deck on top. You will want to talk with at least two licensed roofing contractors who are specifically experienced in this type of work.

Q: Could you recommend a good battery timer for the hose? The egg-style timers do not work that well. --Parker L.

A: Orbit makes a couple of different styles of mechanical and digital hose timers that should do the trick for you. Their website is www.orbit-irrigation.com if you'd like to check them out.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Summer means warm sunshine and balmy breezes, and the chance to enjoy the outdoor lifestyle we've missed all winter. But summer also brings with it the threat of devastating, fast-moving wildfires -- a threat that only worsens as the season moves along.

Wildfires can strike anywhere, with very little warning, so it's extremely important that you take the proper steps to minimize fire risks outside of your home. And this is truly a win-win, because at the same time, you'll also be improving your home's curb appeal and its resale value.

Fire breaks are crucial

Fires need fuel in order to continue burning, so if you deprive the fire of what it needs to keep going, you can save your home. That's why a fire break around your house is so important.

Before you start thinking "clear-cut," a fire break simply means creating an area of non- or low-combustible materials around the house. Those materials include hardscaping such as concrete, asphalt, paving stones and gravel; and low, moisture-retaining landscaping materials such as lawn, moist ground-cover plantings, and low shrubbery.

If you have a noncombustible roofing material such as composition shingles, metal or tile, fire officials typically recommend that the fire break extend out from the house for a distance of 30 feet in all directions. When calculating that 30-foot distance, take into consideration not just the footprint of your house, but also wooden decks and attached or closely adjacent wooden structures such as storage sheds. If your home has a wood shake roof, then extend the fire-break perimeter out to 50 feet.

Trees that are closely clumped together will support the spread of a fire much more readily, so any trees within your fire-break zone should be thinned so they're no closer than 10 feet apart. Any dead or dying trees should be removed. With the remaining trees, remove the lower limbs so that no limb is closer than 6 feet off the ground. That helps prevent a ground fire from climbing the limbs and getting up into the trees.

Now do some cleaning

Within your fire-break zone, it's time to do a little cleaning up. If you have any areas of dry grass, they should be cut to less than 4 inches high. All those weeds, dead grass, lawn clipping, limbs and other dead material that may have been accumulating need to be raked up and hauled away. At the very least, rake it out into a thin bed so that it doesn't actively support a fire.

Of course, you want to clean up any other debris as well: old lumber, plastic pots from past landscaping projects, leftover pallets, fence boards and posts, empty bags and boxes, perhaps even some old cans with flammable liquids; we all accumulate things over time, but they're not only unsightly, they're also an extreme fire hazard. So clean them up and haul them off.

Firewood is another big problem within your fire-break zone. Most people store it where it's convenient to the house, but that also makes it a hazard in the event of a wildfire. Firewood -- and lumber for that matter -- should be moved at least 20 feet away from the house during fire season.

If you're really feeling ambitious, an even better solution is to build a separate enclosed shed for wood storage, which offers both fire protection and great seasonal protection in the winter as well.

Let's talk roofs

Flames moving across the ground represents only one of the hazards you face during a wildfire. The other is wind-blown embers, which can lodge in trees and land on roofs. So you want to clean leaves and needles off your roof and out of your gutters, to prevent an errant spark from landing and finding enough fuel to catch and spread.

Remove dead branches that overhang any portion of your roof. To prevent the possibility of catching a tree on fire with your own fireplace, also trim overhanging tree branches -- living or dead -- back a minimum of 10 feet away from the chimney in all directions.

If you're not comfortable with any of this type of limbing, or with being on the roof to clean off all the debris, hire a licensed tree-trimming company to handle it for you.

Finally, when you're ready to reroof, go with a material that's fire-resistant. You'll have some additional piece of mind, and you may even qualify for a break on your homeowners insurance.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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When considering backyard construction projects, decks and patios are what most often come to mind. They certainly add a lot of outdoor living space, but they can be hot and exposed places during the height of summer. So if you already have your deck or patio project complete and you'd like to make it a more appealing place to spend time -- and add to your home's appearance and resale value at the same time -- you might want to give some thought to a pergola.

A pergola is basically an arbor. Unlike a full patio cover, pergolas are designed to be partially open on top, providing broken sunlight and shade. Pergolas are made up of posts or columns that support cross rafters or even a latticework on top, and sometimes are used to support vining plants as well. Their purpose is both to provide shade and decoration, and one of the great joys of pergolas is all the different design possibilities that they offer.

Design considerations

When thinking about a pergola, you have a variety of things to take into consideration. Two of the most important are what you hope to achieve, and what its overall look will be.

Since the pergola's primary purpose is to provide shade, you'll want to think about that first. Will it serve to cover a dining area or an outdoor cooking area, or do you want it to cover the entire deck or patio? Are you hoping to also shade some of your home's windows, to provide some additional summer cooling? Will the pergola be mostly open, to allow a lot of sunlight though, or will it be mostly closed, to break up the sun and create the maximum amount of shade? Would you like it to support some type of living plants?

You can take the issue of shade to the next level by taking into consideration the direction and angle of the sun at different times of the year. This information is available online for your particular location, or you can enlist the aid of an experienced solar designer. This information can be used to set the rafters or latticework on top of the pergola at specific angles, so that the sun is blocked at certain times of the year but not at others. This is particularly useful if you'd like to keep sunlight off the windows during the summer, but not block natural light from entering the house during the winter.

Pergolas can also cover a wide range of designs, from sleekly modern to classically ornate. Materials can include just about anything you can imagine that will stand up to the elements outside. They can be freestanding, or they can be attached to a wall along one or more sides to add support and to visually tie the structure to the house.

As you begin to formulate your design, you'll next want to consider how each of the individual elements will come together. The best place to start is with the columns or posts that support the structure, and you have a number of different options. You can use pressure-treated 4-by-4 or 6-by-6 square lumber, left exposed or wrapped with a finish grade of lumber for a cleaner look. Naturally weather-resistant cedar, redwood and cypress are possibilities, as are more expensive woods such as teak and mahogany. Many woods are available in both knotty and more expensive clear or select grades.

If you're going for a more rustic look, you might consider natural wood logs. For a more classic look, there are lots of turned and fluted columns available in both wood and low-maintenance aluminum or synthetic resin materials, as well as stone and marble. You can also consider a wood post completely or partially wrapped with brick, rock or other masonry, or posts made of natural or painted steel, stainless steel or aluminum.

The upper structure of the pergola is formed from structural beams that are run between the posts, with rafters that are placed on top of and perpendicular to the beams, forming a symmetrical pattern. Symmetry is one of the hallmarks of an attractive pergola. The rafters can be installed so that they are parallel to the house or perpendicular to it, depending on both appearance and structural considerations.

Besides the columns, the rafters are the next most import design consideration. They typically overhang the beams by a foot or more, and the ends are usually angled or curved for additional aesthetic appeal. The rafters are supporting their own weight -- plus the weight of any lattice you might put on them -- so you have a lot of flexibility in their size and spacing. You may opt for 2-by lumber set with only 6 inches of space between them, or 4-by lumber spaced 4 feet or more apart. A second row of lumber may be installed on top of and perpendicular to the rafters for additional shade, or to support vining plants.

Take some time looking through outdoor design magazines and websites in order to better understand some of the elements that make up good pergola design. You might even find a pergola kit that you like!

Permits and HOAs

Remember that pergolas are a structural element of your home, and will probably require a building permit. Before you get started, be sure to check with your local building department, as well as your homeowners association, for any requirements or restrictions.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Getting your brick, concrete or stone patio ready for summer fun is as easy as 1-2-3. There are just three easy steps to follow, and you'll be ready for barbecuing and entertaining before you know it!

Get things ready

Start by removing any furniture, planters or other objects that are sitting out on the patio. Next, give the patio a good sweeping with a push broom to clean it off. Avoid the temptation to use a pressure washer, as the hard spray can damage the bricks and break out loose mortar joints.

Now inspect the condition of the patio and see if anything needs to be repaired. You may have bricks that are loose, mortar that's missing, or concrete that's cracked. Depending on the nature and the extent of the damage, make whatever repairs are necessary. You can find replacement bricks, mortar mix, mortar patching compound, and other repair materials at home centers and other retailers that carry masonry and concrete supplies.

Wash the patio

Your next step is going to be a thorough washing of the patio, which will remove dirt, mildew and other grime that's keeping the surface from looking its best. For that, you'll want to use an oxygen-based bleach.

This is not the type of chlorine bleach you use in the laundry. Oxygen-based bleaches are powdered, and are designed to be mixed with water. They're safe for a variety of surfaces, won't harm plants and other landscaping, and won't bleach the color out of surrounding wood.

Mix the powdered bleach with water in a 5-gallon bucket according to the manufacturer's instructions. And while these products are generally very safe, be sure to follow any of the manufacturer's instructions for proper clothing or other safe-handling procedures. Stir the mixture well to be sure the powder is completely dissolved in the water.

Depending on how large of an area you have to clean, you can either dip a scrub brush in the solution and wash the patio one section at a time, or simply pour the solution out onto the patio and then scrub it with a stiff push broom. Most oxygen bleach solutions will instruct you to allow the solution to remain in contact with the surface for anywhere from five to 30 minutes before you begin scrubbing, so be sure to time it according to the package instructions.

Work across the patio in sections, flooding and scrubbing each area in turn until you've done the entire patio. The important thing is that you not allow the solution to sit and dry, because that will leave a white residue behind.

Rinse the solution off the patio with water from a garden hose. You can also use a pressure washer set to low pressure, with a wide spray tip. Be sure you rinse off all the solution, and allow the patio to dry completely before moving on to step 3.

Seal the patio

The final step is to apply a sealer. The sealer will seal the bricks or concrete to prevent moisture from getting in, which has a couple of benefits. During the summer months, the sealer helps prevent dirt from penetrating into the surface of the patio, so it's easier to rinse it off and keep things clean. During the winter, the sealer repels water, so it's less likely to get down into cracks in the masonry where it can freeze and expand, causing significant damage over time. And year-round, the sealer makes the masonry look nice!

You want to use a sealer that's specifically formulated for use on exterior masonry surfaces, and you can get them at home centers, paint stores, hardware stores and other retailers. Most are oil-based, and they dry with very little sheen to them.

The sealer can be applied with a brush, pump-up garden sprayer, or paint roller. Brushes work well for small areas, or for areas where you want to control the application to prevent getting the material on other surfaces. Sprayers are fast for large surfaces, especially if you have rough surfaces or a lot of vertical areas, but you have to watch the overspray. A roller helps the sealer penetrate, and works best for large flat surfaces.

Apply the sealer on a day when the temperatures are within the recommended range. If it's too cold, it won't dry; and if it's too hot, it'll dry too fast. You also need to apply it at a time when it has sufficient time to dry before any rain comes -- usually within a couple of hours. Complete application and drying instructions are on the can, and will vary between manufacturers.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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When it comes to a gift for Father's Day, you know you can never go wrong with a cool new tool! So here are some great suggestions, listed in order of average street price, for you or the family to consider for Dad this year.

Kreg Square-Cut ($14.98): Here's a simple, easy-to-use tool that lets you accurately align your circular saw to your pencil mark when cutting wood to length. Adjustable to align perfectly to your specific saw, for fast, repeatable cuts in lumber, siding, and a variety of other materials up to 12 inches wide.

Craftsman Ratcheting Wrench Sets ($17.99 and up): Craftsman is offering a wide range of open-end and box-end wrench sets with ratcheting mechanisms for added convenience. There's a four-piece open-end set in metric or SAE (standard size) that lets you turn nuts and bolts without removing the wrench. There are also seven-piece open-/box-end Elbow Ratcheting sets, also in metric and SAE ($79.99), with ends that adjust and lock at different angles.

True Temper Graphite "Shock Zero" Hammer ($19.99 and up): A very comfortable hammer with a tough graphite handle and non-slip grip. It features a wider striking face, and a handy magnetic nail holder that helps save your fingers. Well-balanced and virtually indestructible, these 16- and 20-ounce hammers should last a lifetime.

Craftsman Max Axess Mechanics Tool Set ($70): This is a truly unique, open socket and wrench design that allows the bolt to pass through the socket and even through the ratchet. It eliminates the need for deep sockets, and even allows the use of a socket wrench on threaded rods. The complete kit includes 42 sockets in SAE and metric sizes, 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch ratchets, extensions and other fittings, in a great case that holds things very well. It's all the sockets a do-it-yourselfer should need around the house or shop.

Black & Decker 12V Piranha Pruning Saw ($79.99): This handy pruning saw cuts through branches up to 3 inches thick, and features a pivoting clamping jaw that grabs the branch for a clean cut with less vibration. The 12-volt lithium battery has enough power to cut more than 50 one-inch branches per charge. The saw also accepts any "T" shank jig saw blades, so you can use it for cutting PVC pipe, copper pipe, plywood and lumber.

Dremel Trio ($99): A versatile tool for a variety of DIY projects, the Trio gets its name from its ability to cut, sand and route. The handle pivots 90 degrees for more versatility, and the non-marring foot telescopes for accurate depth control. Great for wood, plywood and drywall. Features variable 10,000 to 20,000 RPM speed control, and comes in a kit with a case and several handy accessories.

DeWalt DCF815S2 12-Volt Max 1/4-Inch Impact Driver Kit ($139): DeWalt offers several different tough, compact tools that utilize the new 12-volt lithium ion battery technology. This is their impact driver, which drives screws and lag bolts with ease. Three LED lights circle the bit for great visibility, and the clever flat, bottom-mounted battery design lets the tool stand up on its own. Very powerful, but light enough and small enough to easily fit in a tool belt. The kit includes two batteries, charger and a soft case.

Ryobi TEK 4 Inspection Scope ($139): If you need to know what the framing's like inside the wall, where that leak's coming from, or exactly what's going on behind the dishwasher, here's the perfect tool at an affordable price. With a bright LED light, 3-foot waterproof cable, 2-times digital zoom, and a bright, clear viewing screen, now you can see inside walls and behind hidden objects with ease. Uses interchangeable 4-volt TEK 4 batteries. Charger and battery included.

Milwaukee 2411-22 M12 38" Cordless Hammer Drill Driver Kit ($159): This is one of Milwaukee's line of compact, heavy-duty 12-volt lithium ion tools, offering 275 inch-pounds of torque while weighing only 2.8 pounds. Has a two-speed gear box (0-400 RPM and 0-1,500 RPM), with 0-22,500 beats per minute (BPM) in hammer mode. It also has an bright LED work light, on-board fuel gauge, and 30-minute charger, all in a fitted case. It's a lot of tool in a small package.

Wagner 515040 Procoat Max Airless Paint Sprayer ($299): Here's an affordable airless paint sprayer that can tackle all your big projects, including home exteriors. Sprays 0.26 gallons per minute at 2800 PSI, with a 1/2-horsepower motor and variable pressure for spraying a variety of materials. Includes a 25-foot hose with a professional-grade, all-metal spray gun with reversible tip and filter. Telescoping cart allows painting from a 1- or 5-gallon can.

Husqvarna 356BT Back Pack Blower ($479.95): For larger yards, Dad will really appreciate the unique design of this lower-emission, two-stroke, gas-powered backpack blower. The engine, fan housing, and exhaust tube are all designed and insulated specifically to dampen noise. The blower operates at only 64 decibels, which meets many community noise ordinances, and the tone is a lot gentler on the ears. The comfortable padded and ventilated backpack harness has nice wide shoulder pads and a hip belt. The fan generates 177 MPH of air flow, with a tube-mounted throttle control.

Porter-Cable 77240 24-Inch Omnijig Joinery System ($579.95): If Dad's a woodworker, here's the ultimate gift that you might want to get the whole family in on. The well-designed Omnijig works with any router to cut a variety of dovetail and box joints in wood up to 24 inches wide, and from 1/8 inch to 1 1/2 inches thick. Templates allow half-blind dovetails to be cut with a single pass of the router. There are also fingers that are independently adjustable for a unique, hand-cut dovetail look. The various color-coded on-board instructions, depth guides, and bit stops minimize test cuts and ensure greater speed and accuracy.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: We were taught (in a safety class) by an environmental engineer certified to teach about asbestos in the workplace.

We were taught that the federal government allows the homeowner to abate the homeowner's own asbestos-containing products.

We were taught the federal rules allow the homeowner to dispose of residential asbestos waste at the curb for pickup by the local city trash department without any special markings on the garbage bags as to the asbestos contents within the bags.

We were taught that any contractor for hire removing asbestos out of any home or commercial enterprise must follow numerous rigid and expensive safety precautions, (but) the homeowner is exempt from following if the homeowner does his own abatement. Is this true? --Peter V.

A: Asbestos removal is typically regulated by individual states, under departments of environmental quality or environmental protection agencies. Many states allow homeowners to remove small amounts of asbestos on their own.

And while you're correct that homeowners typically don't need to follow the same air scrubbing and air monitoring procedures required of professional companies, they do need to comply with a number of safety regulations for their own protection, and the protection of others.

To be honest, I'm really surprised that any safety trainer at a class you attended would have said it's OK to leave asbestos in unmarked bags at the curb for trash pickup. To my knowledge, asbestos needs to be in clearly marked bags, and it needs to be disposed of at landfills that accept that type of material.

Leaving it in unmarked bags at the curb poses a potential hazard to sanitation workers and others, and should never be done.

The Ohio Department of Health website, for example, states, "Generally, asbestos-containing waste should be taken to a landfill that accepts asbestos waste."

In your state, you could also contact the Ohio Environmental Protection Agency at www.epa.state.oh.us to obtain specific rules and requirements. And the Ohio Department of Health offers assistance at ASBESTOS@odh.ohio.gov or by phone at 614-466-0061.

Q: I have an existing 24-foot-by-12-foot-deep deck that's attached to my house. We had to raise the yard grade to accommodate a new septic system. Our deck needs to be raised a foot so we can grade away from the house. The current deck has a step down from the house so raising it would still keep the deck below the entrance to the house. We took the boards off and the understructure is in great shape. The deck is supported by six cement footings across the front and middle, and the back is attached to the house with a ledger board. Is there any way we can raise the structure without taking it apart? Can we cut it in sections? --Glenn R.

A: Because you have already removed the deck boards, I would suggest installing a new ledger with new joist hangers in the desired location. Then transfer each of the existing joists from the current ledger to the new ledger -- they will sit at an angle temporarily -- then raise the opposite ends of the joists by installing temporary framing under them. That will allow you to then extend or replace the existing posts and girders up to the joists. Secure the joists back to the girders, remove the temporary framing, and reinstall the decking boards.

Depending on what type of access you have to the yard, you might also want to get a price on having a crane company simply lift the entire deck, allowing you to keep everything intact and just add new posts. In the right circumstances, this can be a very quick and cost-effective option.

Q: Does landscaping add to the value of your home? I mean, if you spend approximately $8,000 in landscaping, can this amount be considered when pricing your home for sale? --Gladys D.

A: Selling a home is all about appealing to the greatest number of potential buyers, and adding landscaping is certainly one way to do that. It makes the home considerably more appealing, especially from the front -- that all-important "curb appeal" -- and good landscaping adds to a buyer's overall sense that the home has been well maintained.

How much value the landscaping adds from a monetary standpoint is dependent on several things, including the overall price of the home in comparison to others in the area; how well landscaped competing homes are; how fast or slow homes are selling in the area; and how quickly you personally need to make a sale. Your best bet is to talk with a real estate agent who's experienced with homes in your area, and discuss exactly how much landscaping to add and how much you might reasonably expect to get back on your investment.

Don't forget that the cost of adding landscaping, as with all other home improvements, should be deductible against any capital gains taxes you incur when you sell the home.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: We have a large living room that needs all the ceiling drywall replaced because it is sagging. We believe it is sagging because there was not an adequate number of drywall screws put in, plus there was insufficient insulation with no vapor barrier installed when the house was first built. About five years ago, additional insulation was put in correctly, with the Kraft paper touching the top of the drywall plus more insulation on top.

Our question is: When this new drywall is installed, what is the best way to remove the old drywall, without having all the insulation fall into our living space? --Chris A.

A: Since you have batt insulation between the joists with additional blown-in material on top, removing the old drywall without creating a horrendous mess is going to be pretty difficult. Once the supporting drywall is removed, the weight of the blown material is going to cause the batts to sag into the room. Even if it doesn't come crashing down into the room, as you install the new drywall, you'll have a very tough time pushing all that material back up into the attic. The result could sags and irregularities in the new drywall.

You have a couple of options. Working in small sections, you can rake the blown-in material out of the way, remove the batts in that section, remove and replace the drywall, then reinstall the batts, rake the blown-in material back into place, and proceed to the next section. This would obviously be a pretty tedious operation.

A better suggestion is to just leave the old drywall in place, and install a new layer over it. You can work your way around the room and re-screw the old drywall to stabilize it, then install new 5/8-inch material with longer screws that will penetrate through both layers.

If the ceiling is currently too uneven to get a smooth finish by installing directly over it, then you might want to install wood furring strips over the old drywall, then install the new drywall directly to the furring. Install the wood furring perpendicular to the way the joists run, and use shims as necessary to get the furring even.

With either method, since the old drywall is already taped to the walls in the corner, there would be no need to tape the new drywall to the walls. Instead, cover the wall/ceiling joint with crown molding, which will enhance the look of the room and save you the time and labor needed to tape the corner joints.

Q: Thanks for your informative article on attic ventilation. My question is: Do gable vents count as inflow (low) or outflow (high) in the NFA (net free area) calculation. I want to re-roof and replace my current box vents with ridge venting, but I also have gable vents. I think, but am not sure that my outflow NFA would be a combination of the ridge vent NFA plus the gable vent NFA. --Wayne D.

A: Gable-end vents would almost always be considered high vents, as they are typically located near the top of the gable-end wall, which would place them relatively close to the ridge. As a rough rule of thumb, if you visualize a line cutting your attic in half horizontally, anything above the line would be considered high vents, and anything below the line would be low vents. Of course the higher or lower the vents are, the more effective they'll be.

In your case, assuming the gable-end vents are relatively high on the walls, you are correct in assuming that your high venting would be a combination of the ridge and gable vents.

Q: I just read an article about using pressure-treated wood for decks. I believe it is illegal -- at least in Los Angeles; it should be everywhere. To be pressure-treated, the wood is injected with poison. This makes it dangerous to have exposed. We are allowed to use it internally only (i.e., for studs in enclosed walls). If I remember the newspaper article correctly, a number of years ago someone made a swing/play set for their kids and one of the children chewed on the wood ... another possible Darwin Award. I have seen it used on trail fence rails in Laguna Hills, Calif. -- hello, horses chew on wood!

Or is there some "new" kind of pressure-treated wood that doesn't pose this issue? --Candice H.

A: Pressure-treated lumber used to be manufactured with chromated copper arsenate (CCA). The arsenate is a form of arsenic, which is probably the poison to which you're referring. However, there were concerns about the arsenic in the wood leaching into the surrounding soil, so in 2004 the Environmental Protection Agency and the wood-preserving industry jointly agreed to change the chemicals being used in the process. Today, the pressure-treated lumber and plywood available in local lumber yards is typically made with copper azole (CA-B), or with alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ), neither of which contain arsenic.

While CCA-treated lumber is now used only for very specific and limited applications, I am not aware of any code-related restrictions on the use of the newer treated materials.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: I have downspouts on the north side of my house. After a few sunny days some snow melts but the spouting isn't melted and the water overflows and drips directly over the door, which is about 10 feet from the downspout. Even if the attic were properly vented and insulated to prevent ice damming, could there still be a problem when the heat from the sun warms the roof to melt the snow but the spouting is still frozen enough to not allow the flow of water to the downspout?

There is no access to any crawl space, so what would be the best alternatives to checking the situation out?

Also, there are no visible signs of vents anyplace on the building. This is a three-unit townhouse, built in 1977, and the only place it drips is the end unit nearest the downspout, as all the water flows in that direction. There doesn't appear to be any problem with water backing up into the unit. --Sandra R.

A: If you have snow on the roof and ice in the gutter and downspout, then when the sun melts the snow the resulting water runoff would hit the ice and potentially have nowhere else to go except to the drip over the edge of the gutter. This is not a true "ice dam," which occurs from snow melting from the bottom side of the snow pack on the roof, not the top side. This could be why you're not seeing any damage inside the house.

As to the attic access, are you sure there isn't one? You mentioned that this is a three-unit building -- are you sure that the access isn't located in one of the other units? If you don't have access to the attic, there's no easy way to check to see what's going on up there, or if there's any damage occurring to the insulation or roof sheathing.

However, this sounds like a situation that needs to be examined more closely, so you may want to create an access. This can possibly be done by cutting a hole in the ceiling of one of the closets to create an access, then adding a door over the new access hole.

With backed-up gutters and no attic ventilation, you have the potential for some real problems. I would suggest that you talk with a licensed general contractor or a roofing contractor, and have them come out and examine the situation. They can help you with inspecting the roof and the vents, and with the creation of an attic access.

You might also talk to them about the possibility of some heat tape inside the gutters and downspouts, at least on the north side, to keep them clear so the roof runoff has somewhere to go.

Q: My house was built in the 1940s. We replaced an old toilet with a new water-saver toilet. But the space behind the toilet to the wall is from 4 1/2 to 4 3/4 inches. I have filled (braced) the toilet tank to the wall with Styrofoam packaging (from purchased products) to prevent the tank being pushed back and breaking loose or off. With some use of toilet, the Styrofoam "squeaks" (rubbing on wall) from slight use. Is there some other solution for this problem to keep the tank safe and secure, short of calling in a plumber? --Rene P.

A: The problem is that you have the wrong toilet for the existing rough-in. The rough-in is the distance from the face of the finished wall behind the toilet to the center of the toilet's drain flange. Most of today's toilets are made for a rough-in of 12 inches. Many older toilets were roughed in at 14 inches or even more, which is what it sounds like is the case in your home.

You have a couple of possible solutions. Many toilet manufacturers still make toilets for 14-inch rough-ins, so swapping out the existing toilet for a new one of the correct dimensions is one option.

The other option is to cut the waste line going to the flange and move it back to 12 inches. That's obviously a lot more involved, and I'd recommend that only if the current rough-in is more than 14 inches and you can't find a toilet that will fit.

I would definitely not recommend trying to brace the toilet tank against the wall. No matter how you do it, you're going to create stress on the tank and on the seals between the tank and the bowl, and that's eventually going to lead to problems.

Q: I live in a 6-year-old ranch-style house with a walkout basement in Littleton, Colo. A few months ago, I started noticing that when I walked into the den on the main floor, I would hear a cracking or snapping sound (that's the best way I can describe it) coming from the interior wall and/or the floor in the den. As I'd continue to walk around in the den, I wouldn't notice any more sounds, but if I came back into the den an hour or so later I'd hear those sounds all over again. Any ideas as to what could be causing these sounds?

Do you think that I should just "live with it," or do you think that it may be a serious enough problem to warrant some remedial action? If so, do you know of a company that can deal with this type of problem? --John C.

A: Since you say you're hearing this in one specific room, and it seems to be coming from the floor and wall area, my guess is that you have some movement between the floor and the wall plate. That sometime happens in newer homes as they begin to dry out after the construction and the lumber shrinks and moves a little. The noise comes from movement between two pieces of lumber, or between the lumber and the nails that hold it in place.

Try walking as close to the wall as possible in the area where you're hearing the noise, and see if you can isolate it to one or two specific areas. To fix it, drive a wooden shim under the wall in the area where you've isolated the noise. You shouldn't need to remove flooring or trim -- just work the point of the shim under the wall plate from above, tap it in as far as it will go, then snap off the excess.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Backyard barbecues. A big patio table and chairs. A spot to kick back with a book and enjoy an afternoon breeze. Nothing says summer enjoyment in your yard like a deck!

A well-planned and well-built deck can add resale value and make your home easier to sell. But a tiny, "postage stamp" deck that looks like it's about to collapse at any moment can do more harm than good. So if a new deck is on your list of projects this spring, take the time to plan for something that looks and performs well, now and into the future. Here are some things to consider.

Height and elevation changes

One of the first things to consider is which doors from the house will access the deck, and how high the deck will be in relation to those doors. The deck may be level with the doorway, so there's no step down as you exit the house, or there may be a single step down.

If the deck is fairly high in relation to the surrounding yard, and you plan on having steps leading down from the deck to the yard, consider building the deck in multiple levels. This will reduce the number of steps down to the yard, and will also lessen the impression of how high the deck is in the air. Multiple deck levels also create an impressive architectural feature that really adds a "wow" factor to your yard.

With a high deck, consider having several broad, sweeping steps from the house down to the main deck level. The steps can be lined with planters, or designed as additional seating.

Another option is to have several interconnected decks at different heights, each with a different purpose; one houses the barbecue and is the main cooking area, another is the main dining area, a third has a few lounge chairs, while perhaps a fourth has a game table or a fire pit.

Each of these decks has one or two steps between them, which adds a tremendous amount of visual interest and also eliminates the need for one big staircase down to the yard.

Multiple deck levels can also be done in yards that are fairly flat. Start with a main deck that's level with the exit door from the house. Step down once to a lower level on each side, to create separate individual decks for dining, cooking, or seating. Other decks can step down or even back up again from there.

Deck shapes and board direction

Another method for creating visual interest in your deck design is to use different shapes. Not every deck needs to be a square or a rectangle. Consider some gentle curves on the end of the deck, either in a large sweeping curve or in a more free-form design.

Deck boards can be left overhanging your support framing and then cut in a gentle curve with a circular saw, or in tighter, more complex curves using a jigsaw. Final smoothing and shaping can be done with a belt sander and a router. Even just cutting the corners off a square deck at a 45-degree angle will add a lot of visual interest.

Typically, the decking boards are laid parallel with the house. But you might experiment with laying some of the boards in different directions as well. For example, start with several courses of boards parallel with house, then install some diagonally, in a diamond pattern, before switching back to the original direction.

If you have multilevel decks, running the deck boards in perpendicular directions to each other on the different levels not only adds visual interest, it's also a safety feature -- your eye keys on the boards and warns you of the step down.

Unusual deck shapes and changes in decking directions will often require some alterations to the deck's support framing, particularly the joists. You'll want to be sure and plan for this during the framing stages.

Work it out on paper

A scale drawing is your best tool when it comes to deck design. There are lots of inexpensive computer deck-drawing programs on the market that are easy to learn, and that allow you to design and draw a deck in both 2-D and 3-D. You can also do it easily with a ruler and a piece of graph paper

Start by drawing your yard and the back wall of your house, including the location of the doors and windows. Include any obstructions that might affect the deck, like trees or septic tanks. Then let your imagination go. Think of how you'll use the deck, and what types of things you'll want to put on it. Will you cook on it? Eat on it? Entertain? Have a lot of furniture? What shape would you like? What levels and areas would you like?

Think about the deck both today and into the future. You may only have a budget to do part of the deck right now. If so, consider planning a main deck now, and designing one or more additional decks that can be added onto it later, perhaps at different levels, to complete the perfect outdoor retreat.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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We all understand the old adage of what rolls downhill, right? Plumbers have certainly known that basic premise since the first toilet was invented, and that's why drain lines need to slope from the toilet down to the sewer or septic tank.

Simple enough -- until you're remodeling a basement or other below-grade area and want to install a toilet that's below the level of the main sewer line. If you have a project like that in your future, then you'll have to consider a different strategy.

Sewage ejector pumps and toilets

One option to consider when it's impossible to get the necessary natural slope for a standard gravity flow toilet is to use a sewage ejector pump. These powerful electric pumps are capable of handling solid waste as well as liquids, and most can process solids up to 2 inches in diameter.

As with any type of electric pump, sewage pumps are rated in horsepower, ranging from less than one-half to more than one horsepower. The size you need depends on the volume of material being handled and, most importantly, how far the waste material will need to be moved vertically.

This vertical pumping distance from the fixture to the main sewer line -- called "head" -- is crucial to sizing the pump, and will typically be limited to about 10 feet of head for solids and 15 feet for liquids.

For the typical sewage ejector pump installation, the pump and the float mechanism that activates it sit inside a polyethylene basin that's approximately 30 gallons in size. There's a 3-inch or 4-inch diameter intake line that brings waste into the basin, a 2-inch diameter discharge line with a backflow-prevention check valve, and a vent pipe. Most pumps are 115 volts, but some of the larger units are dual 115/230-volt models.

Another option is a specialized fixture called a sewage ejector toilet, which is designed for below-grade installations.

The typical sewage ejector toilet consists of a pedestal made of polyethylene, which acts as a base for mounting the toilet. The pedestal, which is about 5 to 6 inches high, can sit directly on the floor or can be recessed so that the toilet itself ends up level with the floor. Inside the unit is a set of impellers and a sewage ejector pump, which processes the waste and pushes it up to discharge into the main sewer line.

Some models of sewage ejector toilets are designed with the pump and related vent and discharge lines located far enough behind the toilet that it's possible to construct a wall between the toilet and the pump equipment. This allows for a cleaner installation, and makes the pipes and equipment much less obtrusive.

Composting toilets

Another possibility to consider, especially if you're thinking green, is the composting toilet. Composting toilets eliminate the need for a discharge pump altogether, and give a boost to the environment as well. The toilet is fully self-contained, requires no water inlet, no connection to a sewer, and no chemicals, but does require an electrical connection and a vent to the outside.

Composting toilets work similar to a septic tank. Approximately 90 percent of the waste material entering a toilet is actually water, so the composting toilet utilizes a small electric heating grid and fan inside the unit to evaporate the liquids through the vent pipe. The remaining 10 percent of the waste material breaks down through normal bacterial action, and is converted naturally into a soil-type residue. This residue filters down through a grid into a collection tray located in the bottom of the toilet. In normal use, the tray requires emptying only about once a year.

Composting toilets are not only good for below-grade applications, but also work great in cabins, shops, warehouses, and other locations where the installation of the waste and water lines necessary for a standard toilet is impractical.

Sewage ejector toilets and composting toilets, as well as sewage ejector pumps and related fittings, are typically available by special order through plumbing fixture retailers and some home centers, or through your plumber.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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As the seasons change and things start to warm up again, it's time to start thinking about what's outside. Here's my annual spring checklist of chores you want to be considering in order to clean up after winter's wrath and start getting ready for an enjoyable summer.

Roof ventilation

I hate to be the one to remind you, but remember that ice dam on the roof you wrestled with all winter? And remember how hot the attic was last summer when you went up there to store some boxes? Spring is the ideal time to take care of both of those problems by adding some additional attic ventilation while it's not too hot or too cold to work up there.

Attic ventilation should equal approximately 1 square foot of vent area for every 300 square feet of attic, so first figure out roughly how many square feet your attic is, then divide by 300. The total vent area should be roughly split between high and low vents, so now divide that number by two.

Take some measurements to see if you have an adequate amount of vent area both low in the eaves or soffits, and high on the roof at the ridge or in the gable ends. If not, add more as needed. While you're at it, repair any vent screens and flashings.

Spring cleaning

Now's the time to get the yard cleaned up from all the debris that's blown down. Rake up loose leaves and needles. Remove debris from roofs and gutters. Haul off limbs and other debris. Remove, clean and store your storm windows. Use a broom or water spray to remove cobwebs and dirt from under eaves, as well as on siding and exterior doors. Pressure-wash patios and walkways (pressure washers can be purchased or rented).

Check windows and screens

Do a thorough inspection of all your windows and window screens. Remove and wash all the screens. Look for small holes in the screens that are going to let those pesky insects in this summer, and repair or rescreen them. Clean all the windows inside and out. Clean the window tracks. Clean and lubricate window locks and sliding mechanisms as needed. For added security this summer, consider installing additional locks that allow you to latch the windows in a partially open position for secure ventilation.

Check and adjust grade

Soil is very susceptible to being washed away or redistributed by heavy winter rains and melting snow. That movement can change grade levels and slopes, causing water to run back against your foundation, into your basement or crawlspace, or onto your neighbor's property.

Look for areas where soil seems too high or too low in relation to your home, as well as for marks on your siding, foundation, walkways, and other areas that might indicate that soil or water is in a place it shouldn't be. A 4-foot builder's level placed on a long, straight board can help you check grade and slope. If needed, redistribute and regrade the soil so that for every foot extending horizontally out from the house the soil drops at least 1/4 inch vertically.

Condition yard tools

Dust off all your yard tools and get them ready for the coming season. Replace broken or damaged handles, and clean and condition metal parts. Tighten fittings and fasteners, sharpen cutting tools and mower blades, and service engines and belts in lawn mowers and other power equipment.

Change furnace filters

Now is the time to replace furnace filters that have become choked with dust from the winter heating season. This is especially important if you have central air conditioning, or if you utilize your heating system's fan to circulate air during the summer.

Check smoke detectors

Daylight saving time came around early this year, and that's usually the semi-annual reminder to check your smoke alarms. So if you haven't already done it, now's the time. Replace the batteries, clean the covers, and test the detector's operation before it's too late.

If you have gas-fired appliances in the house, including a water heater, now is also a great time to consider adding a carbon monoxide detector. These detectors are inexpensive and easy to install, and are available at most home centers and other retailers of electrical parts and supplies.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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For a wide variety of plumbing tasks around the house and yard, plastic pipe is one of the most useful materials you can find. Light, inexpensive and easy to work with, plastic pipe is an ideal material for professionals and do-it-yourselfers alike.

There are actually quite a number of plastic pipes on the market for a wide variety of applications. However, the three most common types that you're likely to encounter are ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene), PVC (polyvinyl chloride), and CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride).

All three types of pipe, and the fittings that go with them, are readily available at most home centers, hardware stores and other plumbing retailers.

Pipes and cements

Plastic pipes and fittings are joined together with a process known as solvent welding. A liquid cement actually melts the surface layer of the plastic and fuses the pipe and fitting together. Correctly done, solvent-welded joints are watertight and have more strength than the pipe itself.

Different plastics have different solvent cements that are specifically formulated for use with that material. The cements come in different consistencies -- as a general rule of thumb use regular (thin) cements for pipes up to 2 inches in diameter, and medium cement for pipes up to 6 inches.

The cements are also colored, so that when building inspectors are looking at the joints they can readily identify that the proper one was used. Be sure you use the proper cement.

Before using any specific pipe or cement, verify with the building department that it's approved for the area where you're using it. Also, don't use an all-purpose cement, which is not approved by code.

ABS: This black pipe is most commonly used for drain, waste and vent applications (DWV). It's joined with ABS cement, which is black.

PVC: PVC pipe is white, and is most commonly used for exterior applications such as sprinklers. The cement is usually clear, but you'll also find both blue and gray for specific applications.

CPVC: This pipe is approved by most codes for both hot and cold water applications. It's also commonly used for building sprinklers. The pipe is more of a beige color, to distinguish it from regular PVC, and the proper cement is orange.

Primer: Primer is used to clean and soften the surface of the plastic to ensure a good solvent weld. It's used with both PVC and CPVC, but is not required with ABS. The primer is a readily identified purple color.

ABS to PVC cement: You don't want to be switching back and forth between these two materials within the plumbing system. However, it's sometimes necessary to make a connection, such as where the house pipes join those from the city. For that, you can use an ABS to PVC cement, which is green.

Working with plastic pipe

The process of assembling the pipe and fittings is actually pretty simple. First, cut the pipe to the correct length using a hacksaw or a fine-toothed handsaw. It's important that you cut the pipe end square so that it will seat completely into the fitting; use a miter box if necessary.

You can also use a tubing cutter made specifically for plastic pipe, and there are shears available for easy cutting of the smaller sizes of PVC. Avoid using power saws, since the high speed of the cutting blade can melt the plastic.

Lightly use a knife to remove any burrs on the end of the pipe left by the cutting; don't use sandpaper. Inspect the pipe and the fitting for damage, and clean them both with a rag to remove any dust and dirt.

For both PVC and CPVC, apply primer to the fitting socket and the end of the pipe, using the brush inside the primer can. Do not omit this step! Next, apply a coating of the proper cement to the end of the pipe and the fitting socket, again using the brush that's provided in the can of cement. Check to see that there are no uncoated areas.

Immediately join the pipe and the fitting. Press the two together, then twist the fitting slightly to be sure the cement is spread. Hold the two pieces together briefly, until you can see that the cement has set up.

Remember that you need to work quickly, and you'll get only one shot at completing the joint. If the fitting doesn't seat correctly, stop! Don't try to force the joint together, and don't try to separate it and reglue it. Instead, discard the fitting, cut the pipe back to a clean area, and try again.

Be sure that you read and follow all of the cement manufacturer's specific instructions for ventilation, cleaning and other safety precautions. Also refer to their instructions for specifics on pipe diameters, application methods and conditions, and for timeframes of when the joint will be ready to use.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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One of the obvious basics of framing is being able to join two boards together. For the most part, that's done by nailing through one into the other. But there are a lot of situations where that simple process won't work, so you'll need to resort to "toenailing" instead.

Toenailing is the technique of attaching one board to the surface of another by driving the nails through at an angle. It sounds pretty simple, but for some reason it's a tough thing for a lot of people to master. Since it's a useful and often necessary process, it might be helpful to learn a few tips that will help you get it right.

Select the right nail: If you're nailing through one 2-by-4 into another, the nail of choice is typically the 16d (3 1/2 inches long). But for toenailing, a nail that long can be a little more difficult to start and drive, so a shorter nail is often helpful. Instead, consider selecting an 8d (2 1/2 inches) or 10d (3 inches).

Select the right angle: One of the tricks to toenailing is to get the angle right, and that angle depends on what you're trying to do.

For example, suppose you're installing a new wall stud, so you have a 2-by-4 sitting vertically on top of another that's lying horizontally. If you drive the nail in at a sharp angle in relation to the vertical board, it will go in relatively vertically. This will lessen the movement of one board against the other, making it easier to drive the nail.

On the other hand, if you place the nail at a flatter angle, as you drive the nail in it will tend to move the vertical board in the direction you're hammering. While that makes the nail harder to drive, this technique can be very useful if you need to drive the board over to get it into the proper position.

Start off your mark: When you drive a nail at an angle, moving the board to the side is pretty much unavoidable. So instead of fighting that motion, plan for it. Set your board to one side of its intended final location, and drive it over into position as you drive in the nail. The flatter the angle of the nail, as described above, the farther over you'll want to initially set the board.

Get a tight fit on your materials: When installing a board by toenailing, the tighter it fits, the less movement you'll have to contend with, so cut your board to fit as snugly in place as possible.

A good example is installing a piece of blocking horizontally between two vertical studs. Cut the block so that it's a tight friction fit between the studs (but not so tight that it bows the studs), and you'll find that it's much easier to drive the toenails without the block moving.

Prevent the board from moving: Another way to drive the toenail without moving the board is to physically lock the board into place. You can do this by nailing or clamping a block behind it.

For example, suppose you're installing a new stud on top of an existing plate. Put the stud in position, then nail a block to the top of the plate, right behind the stud. Now, as you drive in the toenail from the side opposite the block, the stud can't go anywhere. Sometimes just driving a nail into the plate -- behind the stud and sticking up a half an inch or so -- will be enough to help keep the stud from moving while you do your toenailing.

Predrill the material: If you're having a difficult time getting your toenails to drive in at the proper angle, consider predrilling first. Let's go back to the stud on the plate example. If you predrill the stud at the proper angle, using a drill bit that's a little smaller than the nail's diameter, it will act as a guide for the nail as it goes in.

It also relieves the pressure of driving the nail through the stud, so there'll be less movement of the stud as you nail. Be sure that you don't drill all the way into the plate, however; if you do that, the nail won't have anything to grip to, and won't secure the board.

Use a pneumatic nailer: In general, unless you're trying to move a board over into a different position, an air-powered nailer is preferable to hand nailing. Because the nailer drives the nail so quickly, you can do it without moving the board. It's also easier to control the angle of the nail as it goes in.

Pneumatic nailers are several hundred dollars to purchase, so it's probably not worthwhile unless you plan to use it all the time. However, you can rent one fairly inexpensively, so if you have a lot of toenailing to do, it's not a bad idea.

Switch to a screw: Another great trick is to use a screw instead of a nail. You can predrill one of the boards at an angle as described above. Then use a 2 1/2- or 3-inch screw, driven down through one board into the board below. The screw will be a little harder to drive than the nail, but it holds better. More importantly, the act of driving the screw won't push the board over the way hammering will.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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There are certain power tools that deserve a place in any do-it-yourselfer's arsenal, and one of those certainly has to be the random orbit sander. For tasks ranging from the aggressive removal of old paint to the fine finishing of a new living room shelf, random orbit sanders offer a perfect blend of sanding speed, performance and ease of use.

A random orbit sander has a sanding disk to which replaceable sandpaper disks are attached. The tool is designed so that the sanding disk spins in a circle and also moves in an elliptical motion. Because of this random sanding motion, no part of the sandpaper ever follows exactly the same path.

The random sanding action produces a swirl-free finish regardless of which way the wood grain is facing, so you can easily sand both with and across the grain.

The replaceable sanding disks are available in several different grits, ranging from 60 to 240 grit. The disks are typically attached with a hook and loop material, but pressure-sensitive adhesive (PSA) is also sometimes used.

Random orbit sanders are commonly classified by their disk size. The most common is a 5-inch diameter disk, but 6-inch models are also available. Both the sanding disk and the sandpaper disk have a matching pattern of holes -- typically eight holes, but some have five or six.

The holes allow sanding dust to be drawn up through the sander and into a removable, on-board dust bag, or directly into a shop vacuum.

In recent years, several manufacturers have introduced variable speed control, allowing you to select speeds ranging from 7,000 to 12,000 orbits per minute (OPM). To be honest, you'll almost always use the sander at its top speed rating, but the variable speed can come in handy for certain tasks.

Shopping for a sander

For most people, a 5-inch sander is a better choice than a 6-inch, since it's easier to handle and your local home centers and hardware stores will stock a wider selection of sanding disks.

Beyond that, it's the little things that count. First and foremost, the sander should feel comfortable in your hand. Random orbit sanders are gripped in the palm of one hand, so you should be able to hold the sander firmly without excessive pressure, and the sander's grip material should offer a comfortable, non-slip grip.

You'll also want to be sure that the on-off switch is in a location that's easy to reach with the hand that's holding the sander.

You'll also want to look for a dust bag that has a good solid connection to the sander. These sanders pick up a lot of dust as they work, and nothing's worse than being in the middle of a project and having a fully loaded dust bag come flying off. A shop vacuum adapter is another nice feature to have. Some models also include a carrying case, which may or may not be important to you.

Testing four different sanders

I recently tried out four different 5-inch variable speed sanders to get a firsthand feel for some of the differences. Each of the sanders was equipped with an eight-hole hook-and-loop sanding disk. Here, listed in order of their average street price, is my take on some of their pros and cons.

Craftsman Model 11218 ($50, including sander, dust bag, and one disk): The Craftsman has a slightly smaller motor than the other models (2.8 amps), and a slightly higher top speed (12,500 OPM). The grip was comfortable, and the grip's surface material had a nice, non-slip feel to it. It has a slide switch that passes through the grip and requires two different fingers to operate.

The "on" position was very easy to reach, but "off" requires a bit of shifting of your grip. It has a cloth dust collection bag with a plastic inner liner, but it's attached with a simple press fit that may be a problem after extended use. All in all it's a nice, fairly aggressive sander with an attractive price. The Craftsman weighs 3 pounds 8 ounces.

Milwaukee Model 6021-21 ($61, including sander, dust bag, and hard-shell carrying case): The Milwaukee had a nice, slender top and a non-slip rubber coating that was very comfortable. It's controlled by a single, sealed on-off rocker switch at the front of the grip, which was easy to reach and operate with one finger. It has a 3-amp motor with a nice soft-start feature that keeps the speed controlled during start up.

The spring-loaded cloth dust bag holds its shape, and a twist-lock feature keeps it securely in place; however, it extends off the sander at an odd angle, which sometimes gets in the way. The sander also has a built-in adapter that fits both 1 1/4- and 2 1/4-inch vacuum hoses. A smooth, powerful sander with a nice feel, it weighs in at 3 pounds 11 ounces.

DeWalt Model D26453K ($79, including sander, dust bag, and hard-shell carrying case): This was the heaviest of the bunch, at a hair over 4 pounds. It has a nice, slender feel to it that fits nicely in your hand, along with a rubber top pad that cushions your palm. The sealed on-off rocker switch is right at the front, and easy to operate with one finger. As with the Milwaukee, it has a 3-amp, soft-start motor.

The dust collection bag is spring-loaded with two positive twist locks for good security, and it extends directly off the rear of the sander. There's also built-in adapters for two standard vacuum cleaner hoses. It's another smooth, aggressive sander that's very easy to use.

DeWalt Model D26456 ($99, including the sander and dust bag): While the other three sanders are similar in height and general design, the 26456 is a low-profile sander. It's about 2 inches lower than the other sanders, and weighs just 3 pounds 6 ounces. The trade-off for the lower height is that the motor is wider, resulting in a wider grip.

It's still comfortable, but possibly not for everyone. A very nice feature of the 26456 is a new motor design that utilizes less wear on components for longer life, plus electronic load control and motor brake. The control switch, dust collection bag, and vacuum adaptor system are the same as on its taller brother.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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It's one of the most common situations in any type of remodeling, repair or woodworking project: how to join two pieces of wood together. There are all kinds of possibilities, from a hammer and nails to complex interlocking joints, and you've probably tried several of them on your own projects.

But one you might not have tried yet is the pocket hole. Pocket-hole joints are strong and durable, and with a few simple tools, they're also very easy to make.

Pocket-hole joints involve drilling a long, shallow, precisely angled hole in the back side of a board. The drilled board can then be butted to another board, and the joint is secured with a special screw.

Pocket-hole joints can be used with wood, plywood and composite materials, and work for everything from small pieces to large panels. You can use pocket-hole joints for building face frames and cabinets; making repairs in furniture and other items; building just about any type of storage box, bin or shelf; building decks; and many other projects.

The three key elements

As you might expect, one of the keys to a pocket-hole joint is drilling the hole correctly. The hole needs to be started a specific distance back from the end of the board, and drilled at a precise, low-slope angle. It's pretty tough to do that freehand, but as you'll see in a moment, there are some excellent drilling jigs on the market that make it a snap to align and drill the holes perfectly.

You'll also need the correct drill bit. Pocket-hole drill bits are long and sharp, with fairly aggressive flutes for removing chips. The bit is two different diameters; the first half inch drills a small-diameter pilot hole, while the remainder of the bit drills a clearance hole. An adjustable stop collar limits the hole's depth.

The final key element is the proper type of screw. Pocket-hole screws are the same diameter along their entire length, as opposed to being tapered like a normal wood screw. They have a very sharp, self-tapping auger point that draws the screw easily into the wood, and a washer head that bottoms out against the shoulder at the end of the hole, preventing them from being driven too deep.

Fine-thread pocket-hole screws are used for most hardwoods to reduce the chances of the material splitting, while coarse-thread screws for used with softwoods, plywood and composite materials, such as MDF and melamine. Lengths range from 1 inch to 2 1/2 inches, and there are coated screws available for use in exterior applications, such as deck building.

Jigs large and small

To make these handy little holes, your best bet by far is to purchase a pocket-hole jig. You can also make your own -- there are lots of plans available on the Internet -- but a manufactured jig is much easier and more accurate.

Kreg is one of the leading manufacturers of pocket-hole jigs. At the most basic is their "Mini Kreg" ($19.95 for the jig and drill bit). This basic, single-hole jig is fine for the occasional user, and its small size is great for doing repair work. The Kreg Jr., at $39.95, offers two holes in the jig. This simplifies drilling two precisely spaced holes for such things as face frames, without having to reposition the jig each time. This kit also includes a screwdriver bit, a sample of screws and a handy case.

For a lot more versatility, step up to the Kreg K4 Master System ($139). This well-designed tool has three holes at different spacings, giving you more flexibility in your hole layout. The jig has a built-in clamp that holds work pieces from 1/2 inch to 1 1/8 inches thick, which makes precise drilling that much easier. The surface of the jig is marked with setup lines, with simplifies setting the depth collar on the bit, and also selecting the proper length screw for a specific task. The insert with the drill guide holes can be removed from the jig to use separately, for repair work. The complete kit includes the jig, drill bit, stop collar, screwdriver bits, a dust collection attachment, a face frame clamp and more, including a case.

For even more speed and versatility in making pocket hole joints, there's the QuikJig Pocket-Hole Joinery System from Porter-Cable ($209). This brand-new jig is easily one of the most clever and innovative tools I've seen in a while.

With the QuikJig, you need to set the stop collar on the bit only once, no matter what thickness of material you're drilling. An on-board setup jig positions the collar accurately, and doubles as a storage area to protect the bit when it's not in use. The location of the drilling guide holes can be varied with the turn of knob, and markings help you set them up for material of different widths. A built-in stop allows for easy repeatability of the hole settings.

The built-in clamp adjusts automatically for materials from 5/8 inch to 1 1/2 inches thick, so it can accommodate 2-by-4 framing lumber. Simply place the material on the jig, turn one knob and pull down on the clamping handle, and the material is locked in place without any further adjustments. And once the material is in place, a guide on the side of the jig automatically indicates the proper length screw to use for that thickness of material.

As you drill, the entire guide mechanism pivots forward, so the hole is very precise and the depth adjusts automatically for the thickness of the wood. Chips drop into a chip bin, which can be attached to a vacuum or dust collector. You can also flip the entire jig 90 degrees onto its back, allowing it to easily accommodate long pieces of stock.

The QuikJig includes the jig, drill bit and collar, screwdriver bits, a clamp and an assortment of screws. The only drawback I found is the huge, roadmap-style instructions.

These and other pocket-hole jigs, screws and accessories can be found at some home centers and other tool retailers, as well as online through Amazon.com and other online retailers.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Drywall patching is one of the most common projects on the do-it-yourselfer's list. Whether it's the result of some intentional remodeling work, such as creating a hole in the wall to fish some electrical wires, or from something accidental, like a doorknob hole in a wall, sooner or later you're going to have an unsightly hole in your drywall that you need to take care of.

And while it's a common project, it's still one that intimidates a lot of people. But there's no need to be scared off. The materials are cheap and readily available, and the techniques are easy to master with a little practice and a little patience.

Get the area ready for the patch

The first thing you'll need to do is prepare the damaged area to receive the new patch. Lay a tarp or some plastic sheathing on the floor under the patch area, to catch all the debris. Wear eye protection and a dust mask while cutting the drywall, and for the subsequent sanding operations.

If the hole is small -- less than about 6 inches across, such as that from a doorknob -- begin by drawing a square around the hole that's large enough to extend completely past the damaged area. Use a small level to draw straight lines that are plumb and level. Next, probe through the hole to be sure there are no wires, plumbing or other obstructions that could be damaged by the cutting.

Cut out the damaged drywall along your lines. You can use a drywall saw, which is a type of handsaw with a narrow, tapered blade and large teeth made specifically for this use. Another option is to use an oscillating multi-tool equipped with a drywall blade.

Larger holes should be cut back to the adjacent studs, so that you'll have adequate support for the drywall patch. Start by using a level to draw two horizontal lines on the wall, one above and one below the damaged area. Using your drywall saw or oscillating tool, cut along both of the lines until you encounter the edges of the studs.

From the stud edge, measure over three-fourths of an inch, which will bring you to the stud's center. Using your level, draw a vertical line at the marks. Now use the oscillating tool -- or a utility knife with a sharp blade -- and cut down the vertical lines, as well as along the remaining parts of the horizontal lines. The end result will be a clean hole that's centered over two adjacent studs.

Install the new drywall

Your new patch will need some support to hold it in place. If you cut all the way back to the centers of the studs, then the support is already in place. So the next step is to cut a new piece of drywall to the correct size. New drywall is available in full 4-foot-by-8-foot sheets, or you can buy smaller sizes that are intended specifically for patching.

Put the new patch in place, and secure it to the studs with drywall screws. Drive the screws in so that the head is recessed just into face paper, and just below the drywall's surface; don't drive them too deep. You'll also want to resecure the existing drywall to the studs adjacent to the new patch.

If your new patch area is between the studs, then you'll want to install some support blocking. Cut a piece of 3/4-inch lumber or plywood so that it's about 2 inches longer than the width of the patch and narrower than the height of the patch. Drill a 1 1/2-inch hole in the middle of the wood.

Slip the wood strip into the hole, then center it in the cutout. Put your finger in the hole in the wood, and pull the wood tight up against the back side of the existing drywall. Secure the wood in place by screwing through the existing drywall. Finally, cut a new drywall patch to fit, and screw it in place against the wood.

Finish the patch

Using drywall tape and joint compound, apply a strip of tape to each of the four sides of the patch. Use a drywall taping knife to press the tape in place, making sure that it's well adhered with no air bubbles behind it. Let the tape dry completely.

Finish the patch with at least two additional coats of drywall compound. With each coat, spread the compound out over a successively larger area, feathering and blending the patch into the surrounding drywall. You want to avoid creating a big lump over the patched area.

Allow the compound to dry between each coat, and sand each coat smooth prior to applying the next coat. Again, sand the edges of the patched area carefully so that the compound feathers out onto the surrounding wall.

When you're satisfied with how smooth the patch is and how well it's blended in with the adjacent wall, wipe it off with a damp cloth to remove any sanding dust. Let it dry, then apply a drywall primer to the patched area. This will seal it so that it absorbs paint more evenly.

Finally, apply texture to match. In the case of a texture that was machine-applied originally, such as a "splatter" type of texture, you can purchase patching texture in cans. The can comes with a couple of different sizes of plastic straws that attach to the nozzle, which lets you spray different sizes and weights of texture. Experiment on a scrap drywall or cardboard before actually spraying it on the wall.

In the case of a hand-applied texture, a little more experimentation and artistry is involved. Practice dabbing or rolling on small quantities of joint compound until you achieve the same appearance as what's on the rest of the wall.

Everything you need, from drywall and joint compound to cutting and taping tools, is readily available at home centers, hardware stores or lumberyards.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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If your next home improvement project requires a little bit of demolition first, it's nothing to be concerned about. Proper demolition requires choosing the right tools -- most of which you probably already have in your toolbox -- and using some simple safety precautions and a good dose of common sense. Here are some suggestions for matching the tools to the task at hand.

Personal protection: First and foremost, match your personal protective gear to the demolition work you're doing. For any cutting operations, wear an approved pair of safety glasses. If you're generating dust, wear a dust mask or a respirator. Use gloves for protection against sharp materials, and wear the proper shoes and clothing.

Carpet: Use a utility knife with a new, sharp blade to cut the old carpet into manageable pieces first. This makes it easier to handle, and easier to get up off the tack strip. Roll or fold the carpet to remove it from the room.

Rip the pad up by pulling it off the staples. Remove the staples from the floor with a staple removing tool, small pry bar or pliers, or just hammer them down. Use a flat bar to pop up the lengths of tack strip.

Drywall: To remove an entire wall of drywall, use a utility knife to cut the tape at the corners. Use a hammer to break a line through the drywall between studs, then pull the drywall away from the wall in large chucks. Use a hammer to remove the nails, or a screw gun to remove screws.

To cut out a smaller piece of drywall, use a drywall handsaw or an oscillating tool equipped with a drywall blade; check for obstructions in the wall, and don't cut too deep.

Trim: To remove trim such as baseboards and casings, first use a sharp utility knife to cut the paint along all the seams and joints. Starting at one end, wedge a thin pry bar behind the trim, and slowly pry the trim away from the wall. If you place a metal drywall taping knife on the wall behind the bar and pry against that, you'll prevent damage to the wall.

Once the trim is off, don't hammer the old nails through the front. Instead, use pliers or end cutters with a rolling motion to pull the nails through the trim from the back side.

Doors and door frames: Remove the door from the hinges first. At the bottom of the hinge there's a hole; tap a long, slender nail into the hole to drive the hinge pin up and out of the hinges, then remove the door. Remove the door casings as described above, which will expose the joint between the door frame and the studs. Use a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade between the frame and the studs to sever the nails holding the frame in place.

Wall studs and plates: Use a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade, and cut between the bottom of the stud and the top of the lower wall plate, which will sever the lower nails. Pull the bottom of the stud out and away from the wall, then pull it down off the upper nails.

Cut the upper nails off with a reciprocating saw. The alternative is to cut through the stud in the middle, then pull both halves off the nails in the plate. Once the studs are out, use a large crow bar to pry the bottom plate up off the floor. If desired, you can pass the reciprocating saw blade between the bottom of the plate and the floor to sever the nails.

Grout: Grout can easily be removed using a special grout blade in your reciprocating saw. Hold the saw at a low angle relative to the floor, and let the blade do the work of sawing out the grout. If you have an oscillating multi-tool -- or want to use this project as an excuse to go buy one -- you can equip it with a special grout blade and make fast work of cutting out the grout lines.

Debris removal: The end result of all that demolition work is always the same -- debris that needs to be removed. Large debris such as lumber and plywood should be cut into manageable sizes as needed. Remove or bend over exposed nails. Smaller material can go into trash bags. Use heavy-duty or "contractor grade" bags to prevent rips and tears, and all the related spillage. To make it easier to load the bag, place it into a garbage can first.

Dust containment and removal: Use plastic sheeting over doorways to contain the dust in the room where you're working. Use thinner painter's plastic to keep dust off furniture and counters. If the room you're working in has an exhaust fan, don't use it -- they're designed for vapors, not heavy airborne dust and particles. To prevent a lot of the dust from getting airborne, vacuum it up using a shop vacuum instead of sweeping it.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: We have white-washed oak cabinets (not very good ones at that). I want to change the color -- can they be painted successfully? And what about refacing -- is that a good option? I do not want to go through the expense of new cabinets! Also, do you recommend knobs on the doors and drawers? We don't have them now and I notice that in places we have actually made little marks with our fingernails, so I guess I may have answered by own question on that! --Virginia B.

A: Let's take your questions one at a time. First of all, oak is difficult to paint effectively without a lot of preparation work. If you look closely at the wood, you'll see light areas that are relatively smooth and darker areas that are very porous. The paint gets absorbed differently into these two areas, so it's difficult to get a smooth paint job without the grain showing through.

To paint oak, the old finish should be sanded off, then a specific paste sealer applied that fills in and seals the open pores. Then the wood is sanded again, primed and painted. It's kind of a time-consuming process to do correctly, so be sure your painter has specific experience with oak (he or she may also know some tricks I'm not aware of).

Refacing is also an option. This involves removing all the doors, drawer fronts and hardware, sanding and cleaning the cabinets, and then gluing on wood veneer. The veneer is then painted or stained and lacquered, and new matching doors and drawer fronts are fabricated and installed. If you are having any problems with older hardware -- hinges and drawer slides -- the refacing won't fix any of that, so you may have the expense of some additional repairs as well.

If you like the look of the oak, except for the color, another option would be to have the cabinets sanded and refinished. This is less expensive than a full paint job, and since you're back to raw wood, you can stain them any color you like, or leave them natural with just a lacquer finish.

Yes, I do recommend pulls. They keep the cabinets from getting dirty and scratched, as you mention, and they also add a nice look. And in the future, you have the option of doing a little kitchen redecorating by just changing the color and style of the pulls. For a great selection of quality pulls in all kinds of styles and price ranges, try www.leevalley.com or www.vandykes.com.

Finally, don't completely give up on the idea of new cabinets. There are some excellent modular cabinets on the market that are reasonably priced, and it gives you the opportunity to change the layout of the kitchen if you want, as well as making changes in wiring. You can reuse all the existing appliances and fixtures, although you will have the expense of new counters. Before you decide on a refacing, I would also get an estimate on new cabinets, just to compare.

Q: As a Realtor new at assessing foreclosure homes for damages and repair work needed, and presenting this information to the banks [and] lenders, where do I start? --Ilene R.

A: That's a great question, and I applaud you for wanting to take the proper steps.

In my experience, the damage that's done to a home that has been foreclosed on can range from minor cosmetic repairs to some really serious structural problems. A lot of it depends on how long the home has been unoccupied, how bad the financial problems were for the previous owners (lack of money can translate into lack of maintenance), and how adversarial the relationship was between the prior owner and the lending institution.

I've seen homes left unheated through freezing winters, leading to numerous frozen and broken pipes, as well as homes with leaky roofs resulting in severe mold. Worse yet is the damage that an irate former owner can inflict, which has included stuffing months of garbage into a crawlspace, urinating and even defecating down heating ducts, and two cases I've seen where a person literally took a chainsaw to the walls.

All that to say that there is no single answer to your question. My best advice would be to hook up with an experienced and reliable home inspector. Home inspectors -- the good ones -- are very thorough in their inspections and recommendations, and that will give you a solid and unbiased opinion of what is wrong with the house. From there, talk with a licensed general contractor with specific remodeling and repair experience to get the necessary repair-cost estimates.

If you can establish a solid, long-term relationship with a qualified home inspector and an honest, reliable general contractor, all three of you will benefit considerably -- especially in this particular real estate market.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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Q: I would like to lay a plywood floor in my attic and want to know if I can just lay fiberglass batts over the loose fill fiberglass that's up there now. --Dan R.

A: There's no problem with installing fiberglass batts over your existing blown-in insulation. The only thing you want to make sure of is that you use "unfaced" insulation, meaning it doesn't have a paper or aluminum foil facing on the batts. You can purchase the batts already unfaced, which is easier and less expensive, or you can peel the facing off of faced batts.

The reason for this precaution is that the facing on the insulation batts is a vapor barrier, which is intended to prevent moisture vapor from penetrating into the insulation. If you install faced insulation over existing blown-in, you're essentially putting the vapor barrier in the middle, between the two layers of insulation.

Any moisture vapor that gets through your ceiling would also pass through the blown-in material and then hit the face of the batt, where it would be trapped. That can cause damage to both the insulation and the framing members, and also has the potential for mold growth.

Q: I have two crawl spaces underneath my house that each are accessible only through roughly 3-foot-by-3-foot, ground-level openings, surrounded to the left, the right and above by cinder block foundation. Crawling through them is difficult for most people, including myself and HVAC folks.

I would like to convert them to standard doors. Do you suggest that I consult a structural engineer as part of the planning? How should I approach this conversion? --Chris N.

A: Whenever you're cutting or altering a foundation wall, I definitely recommend a structural engineer be consulted. There are so many variables to take into consideration that this really is one place where you need to err on the side of caution.

Here's a suggestion for you and the engineer that should save you some money with the installation of the new door. First of all, let's assume that the block wall was correctly built in the first place, and that it has a steel lintel or reinforced blocks spanning the existing opening. If that's the case, your best bet is going to be to keep the opening the same width, and work from there to create an opening for your new door.

Rough openings for doors are typically 2 inches wider and taller than the door itself. So if you currently have an opening in your foundation wall that's 3 feet wide, it should accommodate a 2-foot-10-inch-wide door and frame. Even if the opening is a little rough or undersized, you should still be able to install a 2-foot 8-inch door with no problem at all, without having to alter the width of the opening.

So all you'll need to do is cut down from the bottom of the opening on each side to reach an overall height of 6 feet 10 inches (2 inches taller than a normal 6-foot-8-inch door height), remove the blocks between the cuts, and you'll have an opening that will accommodate a new, standard door. A concrete-cutting company can assist you with cutting out and removing the blocks.

Q: I had a contractor come out to give an estimate on tearing up the existing carpet in my den and laying hardwood floors. They noticed that there were two layers of linoleum/sheet vinyl. They said they could not lay the hardwoods over two layers and that one layer would have to be removed -- and that we would also want to make sure that there is no asbestos. Our home was built in the 1960s.

Is it even necessary to remove the vinyl tile before we lay the hardwoods? If there is asbestos I'd rather leave well enough alone and just put the hardwoods over the tile. Any help you can provide is appreciated. --Lisa Y.

A: In general, it's possible to install hardwood over old linoleum, even two layers, providing the old flooring is in generally good condition, the underlayment beneath the old flooring is solid, and the additional height won't pose a problem at doorways, appliances, etc.

So, the first thing I would do is ask the flooring contractor why they want to tear up just one layer. In part of your letter you mention two layers of linoleum/sheet vinyl, but further down you mention vinyl tile. Vinyl tiles can crack when nails are driven through them, and it could be that the contractor is worried about chunks of tile coming loose and causing problems under the hardwood.

It could also be that the upper layer is not well adhered to the bottom layer, and they are worried that the hardwood won't lay flat. Or, as I mentioned, it could be that overall height is an issue.

You can also get a second opinion from another flooring contractor. If both contractors agree that the flooring needs to come up, then the next step would be to have a sample of both layers of flooring tested to see if asbestos is present. There may not be any in either floor, in which case one or both layers can easily be removed.

If asbestos is present, I would suggest you talk with your local Department of Environmental Quality (DEQ) to see what their rules and precautions are.

In some cases, a homeowner can assume the risk of doing their own tear-out where a contractor can't, so it may be possible for you to safely remove the vinyl flooring yourself and then have the contractor proceed with the hardwood floor installation. The DEQ can give you all the necessary guidelines for how to remove and dispose of the material.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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You're sound asleep when you hear the wail of your home's smoke alarm. A fire has started somewhere in your home, smoke begins to fill the rooms, and you have only minutes -- maybe seconds -- to get everyone out safely.

It's a scenario that none of us ever want to think about. But it happens with surprising regularity. The U.S. Fire Administration reports that once every minute there's a fire in an American home that's severe enough to report to the fire department.

An average of 2,600 people die every year in house fires in the U.S. -- that's one person every three hours -- and an average of 13,000 people are injured.

Smoke alarms
Obviously, one of the most important things you can do to protect yourself is to install smoke alarms. They're inexpensive and easy to install, and no home should be without an adequate number of them.

You should have one outside the door of each room where people sleep, and a minimum of one detector centrally located on each floor of the house. Once installed, be sure the batteries are changed once a year -- pick a specific day of the year, and mark it on the calendar!

Plan your escape
Another critically important thing for you and your family is to plan an escape route. This is something for the entire family to be involved with, since it's the best way to ensure that everyone gets out safely. Here are some tips for devising your escape plan:

Leave immediately: Your home's contents can be replaced -- you can't. If you're alerted to a fire in your home, get out immediately. Don't stop to gather any belongings. Don't even stop to call 9-1-1 -- you can do that with a cell phone from outside, or from a neighbor's house.

You can't always depend on the door: You won't always be able to use the room's main door to escape during a fire, so take that into consideration when doing your escape planning. Look at two different ways to escape from any room.

If a room has two doors, practice your escape from each of them, in case one is blocked. If there's only one door, your next means of escape will be a window, so understand how to escape from each of the room's windows -- directly onto the ground, onto an adjacent roof or deck, or with the aid of an escape ladder.

In the event of a fire, if the door to the room you're in is closed, feel it before opening it. Use the back of your hand, and touch the top of the door or the doorknob to see if it's hot. If it feels cool, open it slowly and check for smoke. If heat and smoke come in, close the door immediately and use an alternate exit.

Know the route: Whatever exit you use from the room, know where that exit will lead you. No matter how well you know your house, during the heat, smoke, and chaos of a fire it's easy to become confused and disoriented -- especially at night. Everyone in the family needs to know and practice the escape route from each room all the way to the exterior of the house.

Plan on a meeting spot: Decide on a specific, easily recognized meeting spot outside the house where everyone can gather. It might be the end of the driveway, in front of a neighbor's, or some other location. Be sure that everyone in your family knows the spot, and that they immediately assemble there.

This is the fastest way to know that everyone's out safely, and to prevent unnecessary injuries from going back into the home to look for someone who's already out.

Escape ladders
A window is the normal escape route to use if the door to a room is blocked by fire. But if you live in a multistory house, using the window on an upper floor is obviously dangerous without a ladder. So for every upstairs sleeping room, you should have an escape ladder ready in the event of an emergency, and each family member needs to know how to deploy and use it.

The simplest type of ladder is one that hooks over the window sill. Open the window, hook the ladder in place, toss the rungs out of the window, and climb down. Ladders of this type typically cost in the $30 to $50 range.

There's a couple of disadvantages to this type of ladder, however. Because no one expects to use it, it gets stored away, and has to be found during the chaos of the fire. Also, many of these are single-use ladders, so there's no opportunity to practice with them.

In my opinion, a much better alternative is a permanently installed escape ladder, such as Werner's new Built-In Fire Escape Ladder ($99 for a two-story model, $139 for three-story). This type of ladder is installed in a can in the wall, directly under the escape window, so it's unobtrusive but always in place when you need it.

The Warner escape ladder is very easy to install, and comes with a clear and well-illustrated instruction booklet. It's basically a matter of cutting hole in the drywall between two studs -- the can is designed for mounting between studs on 16-inch centers -- and bolting the can in place. The escape ladder folds up and stores in the can, and a wood door, which can be painted or wallpapered to match the room, covers the can.

One distinct advantage to the Werner ladder, in addition to always being where you can find it, is that it's reusable. This allows each family member the opportunity to practice opening, deploying and climbing down the ladder. The can also can be used as a step to help you get out of the window, and there's a built-in assist strap, which gives you something to hang onto when you first start the climb.

Where to find what you need
Escape ladders, both permanent and single-use, are available at many home centers, hardware stores and online retailers such as Amazon. Smoke detectors and batteries are available from any home center, hardware store, department store and other retailers, as well as online.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

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